# CO2 Setup - Want to Setup 75 Gallon Planted



## Smiladon

Hey guys & gals,

I have been thinking of adding a CO2 system for my newly setup planted tank (75 gallons). I have successfully kept low light plants (in low light < 1 wpg), but I want to move up the planted ladder and try out CO2 (with better lighting).
I've done some research on it and I think I want a pressurized system with CO2 Regulator & Solenoid. I also read about diffusers, but I am not sure which diffusers are good and where to get them etc.

I'm basically looking for any help from the planted tank experts on what I need to buy for a 75Gallon Tank.

*Substrate:
*Used Eco Complete

*Lighting:*
Currently low lighting (2 x 24w sunblasters) = 0.64 WPG
Plan to upgrade to (4 x 55w power compacts - 2 x Coralife 48" lights) = 2.93WPG

*CO2:
*Need help here to decide what to get and how to get it.
- Is a 5lb tank good enough?
- Whats the best way to get a setup going for someone with a budget --- or to ask this better...how much can I expect to spend for a setup (new vs used) 
EDIT: No budget anymore, I decided to get good proper setup.


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## Smiladon

I'm surprised that there isn't any replies to this... I guess I will just use this thread as an update to my "first real planted tank" venture. I will post what upgrades and changes I've done and maybe post some pics etc (my camera doesn't work now, so it will have to wait).

I've went ahead and upgraded my lights.
I now have 3 x 48" coralife lights for my tank holding 6 (55W) PC lights to a total of 330 Watts which brings it to 4.4 WPG
My next step is to setup a 10lb CO2 with MA957 regulator (with solenoid) and a UP Aqua Inline Diffuser -> diffuser will go in my Rena XP3 outlet.

I still have no idea as to how to monitor and maintain a CO2 system, so any advice on that would be great.


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## jbyoung00008

Good choice going proper setup. Once I switched to a proper Co2 setup it became worry free. Except once the bottle runs out

Best price I could find on a new Co2 setup including bottle was $208 taxes in. That doesnt include tubing or drop checker

Buy the milwuakee regulator, Bubble counter, solonoid combo from J&L Milwaukee CO2 Regulator with Needle Valve & Solenoid. This is the best price I could find and it includes everything

Go to AW Fireguard in Port Moody 10lbs bottle and filled for $60

Buy the diffuser from any local fish store or Canadian aquatics has some too for a decent price. Im not sure which ones work better. Im using the fluval diffuser

Drop checker will tell you how much co2 to add. King eds sells them. Its not fancy but it does the trick. $20 you can also use a ph vs kh chart. http://www.google.ca/imgres?hl=en&s...w=137&start=0&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:73. This form apparently isnt acurate but I used it in the start to help figure out how much I was adding

I went through the same questions when I set up my co2 system 2 years ago. I bought a second system 3 months ago. These were the cheapest priced I could find.


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## Nicklfire

Unless you want a world of hurt with the algae, keep the lighting below 2wpg, your current 4wpg will give you a tank full of algae  Most people think if you get high tech that means you gotta go hard on the lights which isnt the case at all. Tom Barr has been saying this for years, most people get light fever and think more light better. More light simply means that your plans will grow alot more crazy, but it also ups the demand for nutriends (dosing EI) as well co2. 

IF i were you i'd get a 10lb setup with regular and solenoid.. from j&l or one of our other sponsors here, expect to pay about 300$. Best investment i made. 
A glass diffuser works fine, 10$ on ebay. 

Or you could get a inline diffuser which is something i used to have, which works inline with your canister filter, just simply 1 thing that's NOT in your aquarium. For starts if i were you i'd just use a glass diffuser alot cheaper.

I'd keep the lighting at about 2wpg, and start dosing EI and get into a routine of it. I assume you have all your fertilizers you need? If not then cut your light back to what it was until you get your ferts and your co2.

As above stated as well yes, you will want a co2 drop checker, again ebay 20$, you will need some 4dkh solution.. again ebay 6$ unless someone has some local you can buy.

Shawn


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## Smiladon

Thanks for the great feedback guys. *Definitely very very helpful*. I had no idea about the drop checker. I will definitely get one. I just have to find a local store that has the 4dkh solution (I'm sure its available here if they sell drop checkers). I will also make sure to use the pH vs kH Chart.

I have lowered the tank's lighting to 2.9WPG (2 lights instead of 3 --> 4 x 55W) for now.
- I dose 1 cup of Flourish Excel in my tank every 2 days. I dont do anything else as I hardly have any plants. Its very little.
- I also have flourish tabs (about 8 - 10 tabs) in my tank spread out around 5" diameter. I wanted to put this in since I am using used Eco Complete and I am not sure how good it is for plants.


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## dssv

jl carries drop checkers & 4dkh solution .


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## jbyoung00008

Smiladon said:


> Thanks for the great feedback guys. *Definitely very very helpful*. I had no idea about the drop checker. I will definitely get one. I just have to find a local store that has the 4dkh solution (I'm sure its available here if they sell drop checkers). I will also make sure to use the pH vs kH Chart.
> 
> I have lowered the tank's lighting to 2.9WPG (2 lights instead of 3 --> 4 x 55W) for now.
> - I dose 1 cup of Flourish Excel in my tank every 2 days. I dont do anything else as I hardly have any plants. Its very little.
> - I also have flourish tabs (about 8 - 10 tabs) in my tank spread out around 5" diameter. I wanted to put this in since I am using used Eco Complete and I am not sure how good it is for plants.


Use the KH vs Ph chart as a reference. Ive read alot on how its isnt acurate. My suggestion is to use Seachem alkaline and acid buffer in a 2 to 1 ratio. Co2 will drive your PH down overtime. Ever since I started using these 2 products I have never had an issue with my PH falling. Some people on here will say that just using those 2 products wont work since our water in BC is different than everywhere else. I agree our water is different but IMO you are new to plants. Keep it simple at the start. If you get more interest in it than go all high tech become a chemist and start testing and dosing everything.

If your light fixture has more than one cord than you can run the light on timers. You should run it on a timer either way if you arnt already. Have all the lights on for a short period in the day to mimic mid day. I run my lights in a sunrise sunset sequence than my moon lights turn on for night time.

Eco complete is good for plants. Thats what its made for. Adding flourish tabs will make it even better.


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## Smiladon

I actually bought a timer and set it up when I upgraded the lights.

This is what I set up for every day.
Turn on at 10:00AM 
Turn off at 12:00PM
Turn on at 2:00PM
Turn off at 10:00PM


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## jbyoung00008

Is there a reason you are turning the lights on from 10am-12pm?

I also watched your video on your 75g. You will need to remove the sponge filter if you inject co2. The bubbles hitting the surface will break down the Co2. They work against you.


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## Smiladon

My plan was to have it for 12hrs with 2 hours of no light to help prevent potential algae problems. I read it in Shawn's article and I have also used it before successfully.
http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/plants-algae-ferts-ei-co2-lighting-13/basic-guide-lighting-13/

Photoperiod Gaps and Timers

A relatively new concept in *lighting* is to have a gap or "siesta" in the photoperiod. Plants can apparently adapt to a small dark period whereas algae is not so adaptable. Recommended siesta periods can be from 1 hour to 4 hours with a minimum of 4 hours of *lighting* either side of the siesta. This is a popular method of limiting algae growth and personally of have had great success with it and still run my *lighting* with a 2 hour siesta, with 5 hours of *lighting* either side (5 on, 2 off, 5 on). I can assume that the plants recognise that there is 12 hours of light even though the tank actually illuminated for 10 hours.

I dont quite understand how the sponge filter affects it. What did you mean by "The bubbles hitting the surface will break down the Co2." is it saying that the bubbles hitting the surface of the water or surface of the sponge filter?
The video in my signature is an old one. I dont even have that many plants in my tank right now, but I do have a sponge filter in there (I also added a small sponge in the filter intake to prevent any potential baby swordfish to get sucked up).


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## jbyoung00008

Most people with planted tanks have very little water movement ON THE WATER SURFACE. When the bubbles hit the surface they will cause surface agitation thus encourage CO2 loss. Vigorously Aerated or agitated water increases CO2 loss, as the gas escapes into the air. Im trying to find info on why this happens. I will post some once I find a good article .You do want water movement BELOW THE WATER SURFACE.


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## Fish rookie

From what I understand when you constantly break the water surface, Co2, which does not dissolve well in water, will escape into the air more readily. So, it is usually recommended that you do not splash your water too much. It does not mean you should keep water movement to a minimum though as aeration is important for the fish and you do need circulation in your tank.


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## Smiladon

I have an update and more questions 

1) I removed my sponge filter from the tank based on above comments
2) I got a CO2 tank and got it hydro tested and filled. Everything works perfect as I tested it after it was filled with CO2. The only thing missing for me now is a diffuser/reactor.I actually bought one from King Eds on Friday but when I tested it earlier today it didn't work...I got big bubbles from the corner of the ceramic stone...so I went to King Eds to check it out, and one of the employees tried out 4-5 different ceramic diffusers (different brands), and they all had similar issues...So, he recommended that I get my money back instead.

Now I dont really know if I should get a ceramic based diffuser or not... I did see another brand at J&L Aquatics, but I dont want to experience the same thing again...also Patrick is off on vacation (from Canadian Aquatics), so I can't pick up the CO2 inline Atomizer. Any ideas on what I should buy for a CO2 diffuser/reactor/atomizer?

Question:
pH monitor...how does it fit into the whole equation? I got a ph Monitor as part of the deal with my CO2 system and I understand that it works by turning off the CO2 system when the pH in the water reaches below a certain point (which we set).
How does pH changes affect CO2 level in aquarium? If excess CO2 lowers pH, then what pH should I set the monitor to so that it will shut off when its too much?


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## sarcastickitten

Fish rookie said:


> From what I understand when you constantly break the water surface, Co2, which does not dissolve well in water, will escape into the air more readily. So, it is usually recommended that you do not splash your water too much. It does not mean you should keep water movement to a minimum though as aeration is important for the fish and you do need circulation in your tank.


So does this mean no air stones in a tank with a Co2 system? Is it the same with liquid Co2? No bubbles?


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## Claudia

To much talking, where are the pics? Lol


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## jbyoung00008

sarcastickitten said:


> So does this mean no air stones in a tank with a Co2 system? Is it the same with liquid Co2? No bubbles?


You can run an air stone in a tank with co2. It can help with ph swings at night when the co2 is off. If you are running the air pump while the co2 is on than you are actually braking down the co2 you are injecting. Plants will take in oxygen when the lights are OFF vs when the lights are ON the plants give off oxygen so giving them new air at night is supposed to be a good thing. What you dont want is bubbles hitting the surface while the co2 is on. I run an air stone on a timer at night when my co2 is off. Ive read good things about doing this.

Im not sure what happens with liquid co2. Since its not actually co2 its organic carbon


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## scherzo

I would calibrate the pH probe and get a baseline (no co2 being injected) and check what your level is after a water change. 

Then work at setting the co2 to inject enough to drop your pH by .1 or .2. Then get it to turn off. 

Use your drop checker to check what saturation you are at and see if this is your desired level. 

When CO2 tanks get to the end of their level they tend to DUMP a bunch of CO2 in your tank and could suffocate the fish (if you are really saturating your tanks at a high level). The pH controller will prevent that. 

If you don't have a ceramic defused right now you can also use the inlet port of your canister filter (if you have one) or use a wood air store (temporarily as they do tend to clog up over time). 

You just want the bubbles to be as small as possible. They will reach the top of the waterline and the CO2 will be absorbed into the water on the way up.


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## Smiladon

I dont think I can setup a separate timer just for the air pump...I already have a timer for my lights and CO2 (until I get the pH probe sorted out). Thanks Scherzo for the tips on the pH probe 

I got a CO2 diffuser off another member today and my CO2 setup is finally in place. All I need now is some plant choices as I currently dont have enough plants. I want to try and wait a week and observe the plant growth with CO2 before I buy new plants, but I am not sure if I can wait that long. lol

Anyways, my major requirement is a carpet plant. What would be a good choice for me? with 2.9wpg and CO2 with used eco complete?
1. HC?
2. Dwarf Grass?
3. Glosso?
4. something else?

How long should I wait before adding plants? I really want to try HC or Dwarf Grass 


------------------
Claudia, pics will come soon. My phone/camera just got repaired, so expect some pics here soon.


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## jbyoung00008

I have 3 timers set up on my 25g. I bought 2 coralife digital powerbars and added a small digital timer to one of them. Its overkill for sure. I put them all in a tupperware container cut a notch for the cords just incase I get a leak. Knock on wood!

What type of bulbs are you running in your light fixture? Or should I say how many K's are they. This is important. Plants want a bulb around 6400k to 6700k. Some people run just those. Others including myself will run a 10,000k bulb aswell. 

All 3 of the carpet plants you said you like are all good options. I like the look of the HC or a mix of HC and Hairgrass. You can add plants now. Plants help with the setting up process. 

Im looking forward to seeing some pix aswell


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## Smiladon

took a while, but here is a picture for starters.
I seem to be affected by brown algae in tank (and most of my dwarf hair grass) and some green algae in rock. I also lost most of my sword fish btw. funny that the rest of the fish are fine...only new fish are dieing.









quick video here:


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## Smiladon

UPDATE:

I finally managed to get my hands on all the ferts (EI dosing) and started my first dose yesterday. Based on the reading, I will be following the schedule below. Let me know if I am doing something wrong:

I plan to dose them on alternative days. I've separated them into 2 groups. details below.

*Ferts [ Group 1]*
*Quantity*
*Schedule*
Potassium Nitrate KN03
3/4 tsp
Day 1
Monopotassium Phosphate KH2PO4
1/4 tsp
Day 1
Potassium Sulphate K2S04
1/4 tsp
Day 1
Magnesium Sulfate Mg2SO4 * 7H2O
1/4 tsp
Day 1
*Ferts [ Group 2]*
*Quantity*
*Schedule*
Plantex CSM+B
1/4 tsp
Day 2


I also got some amano shrimps to help clean the algae. I hope they dont end up eating my plants instead


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## Tommy72a

It's been awhile since your last update... How is your tank doing? And where did you get KN03 from?


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