# Where to get Crushed Coral



## TomC (Apr 21, 2010)

Where can I get some crushed coral to buffer my tanks? Is there anything else I could use instead?


----------



## FatKid (Jun 25, 2010)

Tom, I picked up some of the coral rock from Fish World on the bypass in Langley. They have solid and crushed pieces there.


----------



## clintgv (May 6, 2010)

Yes, Fish World Langley has them. I think Rogers has some too.


----------



## neven (May 15, 2010)

IPU has it too, but i think rastapus dies a bit inside each time someone asks for it.

Just remember that crushed coral alone doesn't buffer our water well here. I used it for years in conjuction with other products and just about to finally pull the bag out of my filter so i can get better control with GH boosters/bakingsoda


----------



## TomC (Apr 21, 2010)

neven said:


> IPU has it too, but i think rastapus dies a bit inside each time someone asks for it.
> 
> Just remember that crushed coral alone doesn't buffer our water well here. I used it for years in conjuction with other products and just about to finally pull the bag out of my filter so i can get better control with GH boosters/bakingsoda


 I have been researching, and realize that now. What I am looking for is a simple, inexpensive way to keep water parameters acceptable. It seems to be a bit complicated. I really dont want to have to do a battery of tests every time I change water. Maybe that isnt possible.


----------



## neven (May 15, 2010)

You only really need your initial test to see where your tank normally buffers itself to. Then you figure out where you want your tank to end up.

we'll do an example
Capacity: 30 gallon
weekly change: 30%, 10 g roughly
Before: Tank sits at 2 degrees hardness
Target: 5 degrees. 3 degrees needed

Product: seachem equilibrium, 1 tbsp raises 20 gallons of water 3 degrees. pretty simple to work out (GH booster and baking soda will have different dosages and are much much cheaper)

since 1 tbsp raises 20 gallons of water 3 degrees, you only need to add a half tablespoon (or 1.5 tsp converted) to the water you are changing. Several water changes down the road your tanks hardness would be buffered to 5 giving a nice gradual transition for your fish stock. Never dose to change your whole tanks hardness exactly where you want it. Being a bit off is no big deal, as long as you keep it stable


----------



## Kitsune (Jul 17, 2010)

TomC, I add Seachem Equilibrium (GH) and Alkalinity (KH), they are relatively cheap and I don't use a lot anyway. 

I am somewhat random with my dosing (i do test my water monthly and have a pH meter to confirm that I am in the right range). I think the most important thing is to not change the water parameter suddenly. I don't think there is an issue of 'too hard' or 'too buffered' (unless you are dumping it in constantly). Plus the container has instructions on approximately what a table spoon will do (1 dKH per tablespoon per x gallons etc). So I just put in a spoonful after a major water change, and then check the water parameter. I expect dumping in too much at once may cause a sudden pH shift that would be stressful for your fish. 

Anyway my point is if you go slowly you can't really screw up (just get a feel for it over a month, its not going to matter to the fish that you took that long). I think because we are using such technical terms like 'buffering', 'dKH', etc people get scared about it. But seriously as long as you have a test kit its not that hard.


----------



## TomC (Apr 21, 2010)

Thanks everybody for the advice. I will probably give the Seachem products a try.


----------



## WCL (Apr 26, 2010)

If you change your mind call me.

http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/freshwater-equipment-classifieds-27/ft-27-lbs-crushed-coral-6755/


----------



## user_error (Aug 15, 2010)

+1 to seachem stuff

but you can probably get the same results with epsom salt and baking soda...


----------



## neven (May 15, 2010)

or a dry fert mix similar to seachem's product


----------



## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

Well, I hope newbies don't think that these home brews will be as effective. We _were_ making some head way here. To those who want a safe method of improving your aquarium, please consult the adjusting water hardness in the IPU sub forum.


----------



## neven (May 15, 2010)

They can be just as effective, but they are not for new people, they are better suited for someone who's already been dosing fertilizers regularly to their tank and comfortable trying these things out. Personally im just getting into the gh boosters, but i've read into them quite a few times through the years.

just so im not blowing smoke out of my rear:
*Guaranteed Analysis - Equilibrium*
Soluble Potassium (K20) 23.0%
Calcium (Ca) 8.06%
Magnesium (Mg) 2.41%
Soluble Iron (Fe) 0.11%
Soluble Manganese (Mn) 0.06%
Derived from: potassium sulfate, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, ferric sulfate, manganese sulfate.

*Grumpy's GH Booster:* (dry fert)
* 5 grams will add the following to 10 gallons of water:
* 25 ppm K+
* 39 ppm CaCO3 hardness equivalent (just over 2 dGH) (breaks out as 26.6 ppm Ca as CaCO3 and 12 pppm Mg as CaCO3)
* 12 ppm Mg
* 0.15 ppm Fe
* 0.07 ppm Mn
* And will raise the GH just over 2 dGH.

*Barr's GH booster:* (dry fert)
Varies from source, supposed to be
2 parts: K2SO4, 1 part CaSO4, 1 part MgSO4
Many replace the CaSO4 with calcium chloride so its easily soluable. Most add iron to the mix aswell. More often than not its Grumpy's GH booster mix relabelled as barr's.

both barr and grumpy mixes were formulates as an equilibrium alternative, similar dosages and what not.


----------



## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

I don't mean any offense Neven, I am merely pointing out again that there are a number of members here that are just starting to grasp the buffering system and how crucial these adjustments are. Discussing home brews if you will, will only add to the confusion where my main focus is getting hobbyists in this province to improve their water quality. I get countless pm's (thankfully) that have water parameter issues that are in serious need of help. I am trying to keep this topic as easy to grasp as possible.


----------



## neven (May 15, 2010)

i refrained from mentioning the homebrews from your thread for that very reason, so no offense taken at all. It was a lot to take in when i got my dry ferts and i still don't fully understand all of it, lol. Be glad that the first step has been taken, Crushed coral = bad for buffering is no longer a secret


----------



## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

neven said:


> i refrained from mentioning the homebrews from your thread for that very reason, so no offense taken at all. It was a lot to take in when i got my dry ferts and i still don't fully understand all of it, lol. Be glad that the first step has been taken, Crushed coral = bad for buffering is no longer a secret


Yes, and you were a tough egg to crack! Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## skrick (Apr 25, 2010)

if you need crushed coral I can give you lots for free I can give you 2 ice cream pails worth if you wan't I just filled my other 80 gallon and I dont need all of it


----------



## TomC (Apr 21, 2010)

skrick said:


> if you need crushed coral I can give you lots for free I can give you 2 ice cream pails worth if you wan't I just filled my other 80 gallon and I dont need all of it


 Thanks, but I decided to go that route.


----------



## hgi (Jun 13, 2010)

I have about 5lbs of crushed coral you can have for free if you pay shipping.


----------



## Hammer (Apr 22, 2010)

I used aragonite. Not Aragon from Lord of the Rings, but Aragonite. It think its crushed shell structure of plantonic crustacean or something. Bought at King Ed's, but i have seen it everywhere


----------

