# LED input



## BaoBeiZhu (Apr 24, 2010)

I was over by a canreef members house earlier today and he had these Eshine leds.

which seems to be doing a great job.
so I thought why not..

E.shine Aqua - LED Aquarium Light, CREE Aquarium Light, LED Grow Light, LED Hydro Grow Light.

Theres a few to choose from, and i was wondering which is good for a 120 gal 5 feet tank.

right off the bat I thought the Cree Or the Aquamaster is the way to go, but does anyone know what does the 4G and 3G mean? (they have it at the bottom)

Thanks guys


----------



## monocus (Sep 27, 2010)

probably for the cree emitters.if you want to see other leds i have more at my place.stay away from 1 watt leds-good only for fish only


----------



## BaoBeiZhu (Apr 24, 2010)

thanks, so the cree and aquamaster on that site should be good then? its 3W leds. 

anyone think 2 aquamaster would do good for my 5 feet tank?


----------



## monocus (Sep 27, 2010)

depends on the depth.i'm using a vertex at full power to get my par up.the next light i build will have 10 watt leds as well


----------



## Fansons (May 20, 2010)

No price on the web site, wondering their price range.


----------



## BaoBeiZhu (Apr 24, 2010)

my tank depth is 25 inches monocus


----------



## SeaHorse_Fanatic (Apr 22, 2010)

The light looks nice but the design flaw that I notice is that all the LEDs are down the middle and the T5s are on the edge. Since LEDs are more of a point-light source compared to Metal Halides, you're looking at very intense lighting from the concentration of LEDs down the middle while the areas beyond are not going to have much PAR. 

I think a better solution would have been to have the LEDs down the outside, the T5s inside and the Moonlights down the middle. One T5 on each side is not going to give much in terms of light intensity or penetration in even an 18" deep tank. Two 14w T5s together in the middle would be a little better and separating the LED lines would give you much more coverage. I'm guessing the T5s are there mainly to let you add more blue or other colours, not for coral growth. 

If you have a choice of optics, I would go with 90 degrees to give you some spread.

These would work, but you have to be careful about coral placement I think. Anything directly under the LEDs would have to need very high light while anything beyond would have to be low light. 

Also, if you already have corals, if the LEDs do not have dimmers, you may have to figure out a way to raise your units then slowly lower the light over several weeks to allow the corals to adapt to the new lights.


----------



## BaoBeiZhu (Apr 24, 2010)

SeaHorse_Fanatic said:


> The light looks nice but the design flaw that I notice is that all the LEDs are down the middle and the T5s are on the edge. Since LEDs are more of a point-light source compared to Metal Halides, you're looking at very intense lighting from the concentration of LEDs down the middle while the areas beyond are not going to have much PAR.
> 
> I think a better solution would have been to have the LEDs down the outside, the T5s inside and the Moonlights down the middle. One T5 on each side is not going to give much in terms of light intensity or penetration in even an 18" deep tank. Two 14w T5s together in the middle would be a little better and separating the LED lines would give you much more coverage. I'm guessing the T5s are there mainly to let you add more blue or other colours, not for coral growth.
> 
> ...


what if i went with 3 or even 4 Eshine Crees.
do you think those are a bit better? as I could spread them out apart a bit more 
E.shine Systems - 60W CREE Classic LED Aquarium Light

well.. I was only gonna go with 2 for my softies and Lps. But Gordon just had to suggest 6 ! LOL


----------



## SeaHorse_Fanatic (Apr 22, 2010)

The "Classics" are next to useless I think compared to newer models of LEDs.

In business, "classic" is marketing-speak for older model that's been replaced by something newer & better.

Only exception is "COKE CLASSIC":bigsmile:


----------



## monocus (Sep 27, 2010)

your par would be about 300 near the top and going down in depth on a 21" tank-see if you can get par measurements before you buy.the lights i've been building have 60 degree lenses.i'm waiting on a driver that should be here this week and i'll be better at saying what my par would be using 3 watt leds.i just priced out a build using 4 10 and 120 3 watt bulbs all dim-able for another member-$1400 in parts and $200 labour for a 50x10 light.might be cheaper for you to build your own


----------



## monocus (Sep 27, 2010)

*lights*

and coke classic was replaced by pepsi:bigsmile:


----------

