# Adventures in tank, stand and sump building + everything in between



## Bunny (Oct 13, 2013)

I'm not too sure if this should be in the DIY section or the tank journal section but I'll be asking lots of questions so DIY might be better for now.

Currently we have a 33 gallon tank and a rapidly growing pleco. That damn pleco.  We are getting him a bigger tank with the main goal being a bigger footprint for him and also more bottom-dwellers.

The new tank will be a rebuild of a broken 120 gal we are getting for cheap from here. The plan is to replace the broken side panel and cut the sides down by about 2"-4" just to reduce the total volume a bit - such a large tank makes me a bit nervous of leaks and the like - especially since we will be rebuilding it and have no prior tank building experience.

The current tank will become the sump for the new tank. So far the plan is to use the BeanAnimal method of plumbing (with the 3 standpipes) and a sump design from Build Your Own Custom Sump Filter (the "Standard Freshwater" design)

The current tank will become the sump for the new tank. I fell like 33 gallon sump for a 120 gallon tank might be a bit on the small side but our only other option is a rubbermaid container as we are somewhat broke students and doing this on as small a budget as possible.

First questions for all you lovely people:
1. Is the BeanAnimal method of plumbing a good idea with the weir/overflow? it seems like a good design to me but wondering if anyone has any thoughts on it?
2. Anyone have any experience with this pressure-fit method of building the baffles in a sump?
baffles

I'm not sure how I feel about putting pressure on the sides of a glass tank, however this would make it much easier and adjustable as well as remove the need to wait for the silicon to dry.

Thank you all for reading and thank you for those who take the time to respond and give me some much-needed insight. Thank you also to the people that have already helped me out on other threads (hoping to keep my build mostly contained here...)


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## target (Apr 21, 2010)

I just installed a bean animal overflow in my 90g with the internal overflow box and am super happy with it. Once you get it tuned properly it is pretty much silent. And it handles my return pump on full flow which is supposedly 1589gph, obviously before head loss. Plus, the extra layers of security it includes just adds to the peace of mind. 

For the sump I bought a 40g breeder tank which fit nicely into the stand I built. Your sump link seems to be a lot more complicated than what I did. I have only 2 baffles, one for the skimmer section and one for the return pump section. Freshwater would be different though as you'll have no skimmer and more mechanical filtration.

As for the baffles, when I did my sump I siliconed them into place. Curing time on the silicone I used was 24 hours, so no big deal. The only thing I'd worry about with the pressure fit baffles is them slipping out of place due to water pressure.

Make sure to post pictures as you go along.


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## Bunny (Oct 13, 2013)

The thing about having ANY curing time in the sump is that I dont have a place to keep the fish temporarily unless I can just leave them with my current filter for 24hrs in the new tank. The sump-build will ideally be sorta a one-day thing and in-function by the end of the day...
I'll post pics of the new tank tomorrow after we pick it up 

Its supposedly a bottom-drilled tank, so in the rebuild I'm planning on switching the back and bottom pieces of glass (assuming they are the same width) and I just hope the holes are on an edge of the bottom and not the middle... If its the middle I guess I'll just be making an oddly shaped weir or replacing the piece.

Um... here's a question - how on earth does one do water changes on a 110 gal tank? right now I use a manual siphon and a bucket :O

Also, can anyone give me an approximate quantity of silicon that would be used on a 120 gal tank build? Planning on ordering this stuff from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/1200-Series-C..._indust_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VR1D7HR29XQANS931MV


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## target (Apr 21, 2010)

You could definitely leave the fish in the new tank with your existing filter while the sump cured.

For water changes either get a python or a safety siphon: Safety Siphon Aquarium Drain

Makes it so much easier than carrying buckets.

I would skip ordering from Amazon and go to Hime Hardware to pick up this: Home Hardware - 3 Pack 300mL Multi-purpose Clear Silicone II Sealant

This is what I used. You can buy single tubes too but the 3 pack is cheaper than what you were looking and it says aquarium safe right on the tube.


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## Bunny (Oct 13, 2013)

Thank you so much for your advice 
That silicon will be strong enough? I only ask because I saw some types of silicon referred to as "just sealant" and others were recommended as strong enough to build with.

After doing some research today I think I have a handle on the disassembly. Planning on using a metal measuring tape from the dollar store (if they have them) and cutting pieces off of it to use to separate the glass and cut the silicon... fishing line might make a guest appearance too.

Still not sure about bracing on the tank. Might keep the existing brace and put it back on - might go rimless and have some sort of glass bracing. Time for a new research topic - bracing large tanks!


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## target (Apr 21, 2010)

For the amount of work and the chances of cutting yourself, I'd probably not cut down the height of the tank. As long as you rebuild it properly you'll not get any leaks, and removing 2-4" wouldn't save you much mess if you did get a flood anyways. Bigger tank is always nicer.


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## Bunny (Oct 13, 2013)

I'm planning on using this thread as a construction guide: DIY 150g all glass aquarium

1. I am still a little concerned about the strength of the silicon, I am in contact with the manufacturer of the "HHCLEAR" silicone from home hardware above and am trying to get some technical data about it. From experience how does it compare to the RTV108? Its about 1/3 of the price so I'd rather use the cheaper one, however I have seen large tank builds all refer to the RTV silicone and the technical information means that I can actually do some calculations and feel safe about it 
(Maine Electronics lists it on their website for $16/300mL tube.

2. Another thing that I have seen mentioned is bubbles being trapped in the silicone seam and drastically weakening it. Is there a technique to avoiding these bubbles?

3. Lastly, I'm still trying to figure out if it will be safe to eurobrace this tank or if I will need to put the rims back on. There is a plastic crossbrace of aprox 3" on it currently. Right now I'm thinking about super overkill of a bottom and top eurobrace plus a crossbrace or two. The glass is all 1/2". I have looked at SO many calculators and build threads lately and have been unable to find any solid information. 
Can anyone link me to somewhere that has calculation factors for top/bottom eurobracing and crossbraces? Would be cool if it also included ways to factor in drilled walls and coast-to-coast weirs 
It seems that people are all unwilling to commit to a "YES! That will be safe" answer online, so I'd like to do the math myself however I'm unfamiliar with the material factors that would need to be considered for various types of glass and silicon.
I'll probably dig up some old textbooks about this anyways, but it would be nice if there is info online about it already.

4. After building the tank, does the inner silicone need to be removed and a proper seal formed? (Re-seal the tank?) As total beginner builders I'm not confident we could work quickly enough to get the tank together and smooth out all the inner seams before the silicone starts to set (5-10 min working time?) although I think that would be ideal. I feel as if this is a very important step in building a tank but I have only seen it mentioned once or twice and usually its a question at the very end of a dead thread...


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## Bunny (Oct 13, 2013)

So I suppose it is high time for some pictures.

Initial tank, it was being used as a reptile tank:








After removing the reptile's styrofoam bits from the inside:








Close up of the cracked/shattered side panel (held together with copious amounts of silicone):








Mostly cut through corner of top rim. I finally decided to go for it and brute-force (gently cut) the trim off.








The plan is to shave the plastic off the corners and somehow figure out how to get the short lengths off initially.


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## bonsai dave (Apr 21, 2010)

This the best and safest silicone you can use for aquariums.

GE SCS1200 Silicone - Black 300ml // Aquarium Supplies Canada - Pond Supplies Canada - Reptile Supplies Canada // Pets & Ponds


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