# Eheim Filter help (It won't fill up with water now)



## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

Hi, I'm setting up my new for me Eheim filter. It was previously used as a saltwater filter for a while so I'm wondering if I NEED to run it through Vinegar/water solution.. 

Also can I use the old media? The old substrat pro and the coarse media? Should I just boil it or run it through the vinegar/water solution?

Or should I just replace all media all together?

I'm already replacing the pipes for the filter and will be hooking up my inline heater with it. 

Thanks for you help in Advance!! 

Zee.


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## The Guy (Nov 26, 2010)

Hi Zee: I got a XP1 that was used on SW to use in 1 of my FW tanks so I boiled the media and replaced the sponge and it worked out ok and I had no problems.


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

I don't see any problems either. I've used sw filters again in fw and no problems. Might be nice to use the vinegar to get rid of some of the sw deposits but other than that, you should be good to go.


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## hp10BII (Apr 23, 2010)

It's very good media, the substrat pro is sintered glass and the pores may be clogged with organics limiting it's bio capacity. I would consider soaking in a bleach/water solution to unclogged the pores.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

Thank for your replies everyone! 

How many parts bleach and water should be used for the bleach/water solution? Also how long should it be soaked for? Is there any chance of bleach trace elements wiping out my tank?


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## The Guy (Nov 26, 2010)

That's why I boil and not bleach, although I have done bleach method as well but I just feel better boiling the media.


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## hp10BII (Apr 23, 2010)

The same way I regenerate Purigen, bleach to water 50/50. Just be sure to use dechlor to remove any traces of bleach:

Seachem. Purigen


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

Hi guys, so I cleaned it all up and hooked up the filter and now the water won't come down to the filter for some reason. I followed everything exactly as It is listed in the filter manual. I see some bubbles coming out of the output and a little bit of water trickling down the intake line but it stops after 5 seconds... Any thoughts or tricks you might know of?

Would excess slack in the tubing cause this problem? I have about 3 - 4 inch slack in my tubing. I was scared of cutting it too short and in the process I ended up cutting it a little too big.


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

What model of Eheim is this? Did you try the prime button? That sucks water into the intake. Also, you should begin with the filter full of water before plugging it in. In fact, I think the Eheim intake kits have a cap at the top of the intake hose that you use to fill the hose with water. The more water you get into the hose, the easier it will be for the filter. Also, positioning of the filter is critical. Ideally, the entire filter needs to be below the bottom of the tank for the siphon to work properly. I've placed my filter on the counter top along with my tank and the filter really struggles with the siphon. 

You mention you have some slack but that's normally not a big problem unless the slack is causing a big "U".


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

I have a different approach to start a canister...

Never fill the filter up with water. Have everything empty. Then put you intake in your tank. Then grab the outflow and give it a couple of good suction with your mouth. You won't drink any water. Then put the outflow in the tank. You will then hear and see bubbles coming from your outflow.

The water is being pull down by gravity causing it to push the air out through your outflow and that is why you see the bubbles. Once the bubble stops, then plug it in. Works every time.


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## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

charles said:


> I have a different approach to start a canister...
> 
> Never fill the filter up with water. Have everything empty. Then put you intake in your tank. Then grab the outflow and give it a couple of good suction with your mouth. You won't drink any water. Then put the outflow in the tank. You will then hear and see bubbles coming from your outflow.
> 
> The water is being pull down by gravity causing it to push the air out through your outflow and that is why you see the bubbles. Once the bubble stops, then plug it in. Works every time.


This is true of all canisters, the number one cause of canister filter confusion comes from hobbyists filling the canister with water first then trying to prime it.


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

Another thing to remember is to keep the hose run as straight as possible and avoid loops at all costs. It's next to impossible to prime with loops. I never suck on my canisters, but use the prime buttons and make sure to minimize hose run lengths. However, the sucking thing will work for sure.


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## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

2wheelsx2 said:


> Another thing to remember is to keep the hose run as straight as possible and avoid loops at all costs. It's next to impossible to prime with loops. I never suck on my canisters, but use the prime buttons and make sure to minimize hose run lengths. However, the sucking thing will work for sure.


Yes, but some canisters don't have a primer.


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

Rastapus said:


> Yes, but some canisters don't have a primer.


Yep,, my Renas and Eheim classics don't. I set it all up, eliminate excess hose and loops and hook everything up, but keep the airlock in place by closing the disconnects and once set, open them up and whoosh, away we go. Never sucked on a canister hose before and hope I never have to...especially if it's run for a while...


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## dsouthworth (Nov 21, 2011)

This is what I do too. It all just does it on it's own. And Since I have my out-flo at the bottom of the tank, im not able to start the siphon via mouth.



2wheelsx2 said:


> Yep,, my Renas and Eheim classics don't. I set it all up, eliminate excess hose and loops and hook everything up, but keep the airlock in place by closing the disconnects and once set, open them up and whoosh, away we go. Never sucked on a canister hose before and hope I never have to...especially if it's run for a while...


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## mcrocker (May 29, 2010)

The key is to have your inflow hose filled with water. If you can close a valve when disconnecting the inflow hose from the filter, you should only have to get it filled once, then it will start the siphon itself once you open the valve every time after that. Just leave the filter empty of water after cleaning, and open the valve to let it fill up.

You can fill the hose the first time by submerging it in a bucket if you are opposed to sucking on the outflow. Then you just need to keep the water in the hose until you can put it in your tank.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

charles said:


> I have a different approach to start a canister...
> 
> Never fill the filter up with water. Have everything empty. Then put you intake in your tank. Then grab the outflow and give it a couple of good suction with your mouth. You won't drink any water. Then put the outflow in the tank. You will then hear and see bubbles coming from your outflow.
> 
> The water is being pull down by gravity causing it to push the air out through your outflow and that is why you see the bubbles. Once the bubble stops, then plug it in. Works every time.


Worked like a charm! 

Thanks Charles!!

Thanks everyone else for your responses!!


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

It seems to be an awesome filter! I'm wondering how long I should run it before I take out my Fluval? I've had that fluval running on it for a while now and I don't want an ammonia spike when I take it out. 

What would be the safest way to go about it?


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

I'd leave the old one in there for a week or two more. All depends on your bioload. I always wondered about that myself too. Because if you think about it, there will only be as much bacteria as you can provide food. So if you have a high bioload, I can understand that any new biomedia you put in will get colonized at some point. If there's already plenty of bio capacity and in your old filter, will your new filter get colonized quickly? I'm not sure of the answer to that. Would love to know myself.


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## dsouthworth (Nov 21, 2011)

I would leave it for at least a month.. 
Tits the same as when you add a new filter, you shouldn't clean I for 4+ months.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

tony1928 said:


> I'd leave the old one in there for a week or two more. All depends on your bioload. I always wondered about that myself too. Because if you think about it, there will only be as much bacteria as you can provide food. So if you have a high bioload, I can understand that any new biomedia you put in will get colonized at some point. If there's already plenty of bio capacity and in your old filter, will your new filter get colonized quickly? I'm not sure of the answer to that. Would love to know myself.


I was wondering about the same thing. I guess some would develop in there over time as they move through the water column?



dsouthworth said:


> I would leave it for at least a month..
> Tits the same as when you add a new filter, you shouldn't clean I for 4+ months.


A month eh? I was thinking about 2 weeks but I guess keeping it for a month won't hurt.. except for the electricity bill :lol:

and you're saying I should not clean the Eheim for more than 4 months from now? Why is that?

I like to clean my filters often to keep them gunk free so the water stays as clean as possible.


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

zhasan said:


> and you're saying I should not clean the Eheim for more than 4 months from now? Why is that?


It doesn't take 4 months for a filter to colonize in an established tank. In fact, a fishless cycle take only 2 to 3 weeks to get to a full load.

If I didn't clean any of my filters for 4+ months, they'd be so clogged there would be almost no flow through it.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

2wheelsx2 said:


> It doesn't take 4 months for a filter to colonize in an established tank. In fact, a fishless cycle take only 2 to 3 weeks to get to a full load.
> 
> If I didn't clean any of my filters for 4+ months, they'd be so clogged there would be almost no flow through it.


I Agree with you there Gary! I try to clean mine up every two weeks!


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

zhasan said:


> I Agree with you there Gary! I try to clean mine up every two weeks!


That might be a bit too often. If you need to clean that often I would consider going to a bigger canister or multiple canisters for safety. I'm running 3 in my 125 gallon (I know I know, I plan to sump it) and I clean 2 of them about once a month and the third about once every 6 weeks.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

WAO 3 of them? I was thinking of running two, I've the Fluval and the Eheim now... I was thinking of replacing the Fluval with another Eheim 22.. something... I don't know which one it is exactly. Pat is placing an order on them soon. But I've not decided yet.

The reason why I clean every two weeks is because I want the buildup waste out of there so it doesn't pollute the water... I just like to go the extra mile because I want to grow my discus in optimum water conditions. 

But now that I have two of them running, I'll probably switch around the filter cleaning cycle!


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

I think two canisters on my 72 would be overkill anyways, no?


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## CRS Fan (Apr 21, 2010)

Zee..... You can never have enough filtration for discus OR plants ! IMHO. I run a Eheim 2028 and an AC50 on my 27 gallon and a 2217 on my 22 long. Filtration is GOOD !

Best Regards,

Stuart


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

They tend to clog pretty badly in planted tanks. I'm running a 2078 in my cube and wish I had drilled holes for 2x 2075 instead. In my 125, I'm running an FX5, a 2028 and an XP3. I have a 2075 in my 46 bow and also an internal Fluval 3.


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## zhasan (Oct 28, 2010)

Yeah, I think i'll keep my Fluval until I find a replacement for it. Would Eheim 2075 and a 2215 be a good combination? Also, Do I really need a UV filter for my tank? I have a hydor heater hooked up to my 2075 that I bought on boxing day with a turbo twist UV, I'm still debating if I should hook up the UV to my discus tank or save it for my Saltwater tank. Any ideas, suggestions?


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## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

UV is a matter of personal opinion. Some people like them, some people don't. I have them in 2 of my tanks, and because of logistics, don't currently have one on my discus tank, but wish I did.

As for the 2075/2215, a more evenly matched pair in terms of volume and flow rates would be 2075 and 2217. But if you have them already, no reason not to use them.


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