# First time w/Pressurized CO: wants vs. needs



## Daryl (Jun 1, 2010)

Hi All,

Okay, so I just picked up the CO2 package I ordered from J&L on Boxing Day. I have the CO2 tank filled and ready to install. Just wanted to look for some help first to make sure I have all of the basic requirements covered in order to get going. This is what I have;

- Aluminum 5lb CO2 tank (filled)
- Brass dual gauge regulator
- Calcium Reactor Solenoid (I assume 'calcium reactor' is the brand name?)
- Calcium Reactor Needle valve
- 3 in 1 CO2 Diffuser/Bubble Counter/Check Valve
- 6 feet of 1/8" neoprene tubing
- Spring stop check valve (figured it wouldn't hurt to have redundant check valves).

Am I ready to go with this? Do I _*need*_ anything else?

Assuming for a moment that I have all the basics covered... What could I add to make this set-up easier to use & maintain? What would you want to add?

- A timer or monitor/controller?
I do have an extra timer kicking around that I could use to shut the CO2 off at night. Would a controller be better/more accurate? If so, what type of controller? I have read that too much CO2 can starve the fish of oxygen and also call the PH to plummet. If I go with the timer should I have the CO2 shut-off when the lights go off and come on when the lights come on or is it better to stagger the off/on times?

I could also use some help/insight with the following:

- CO2 flow rate: bubbles per second (or seconds per bubble) 
- photo period: how long should I leave my lights on? (lights are a 48" Beamworks LED with 72 x 1w LED's (10,000k Daylight & Blue Actinic)
- diffuser location: I have heard that putting your diffuser in close proximity to your canister filter intake is a common strategy to help insure the CO2 gets properly dissolved and distributed around the tank. My father in-law does this and he also had to replace his impeller recently - is it safe to assume that the CO2 increases the wear & tear on the pump if you go this route? Would it be better to put the diffuser in proximity to the filter outlet? I do have two canister filters - one returns close to the surface for O2/surface exchange. The other returns lower in the water column; about 2/3rds down. I presume the lower return would be better choice to reduce the amount of CO2 just being released into the atmosphere?

Thanks in advance for any/all help.


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## jbyoung00008 (May 16, 2011)

Sounds like you have most of it covered. I run my Co2 on a timer. It turns on a 1/2 hour before the lights turn on. This allows the perfect amount of Co2 to be in the water when the lights come on. At night it turns off with the lights.

As for bubbles per second. I struggled with that when I first started. Lots of different opinions on it. If you pump too much Co2 the fish will all rise to the surface looking for air. Co2 displaces oxygen so if it happens for to long fish will die  Best advice dont mess with your Co2 tank at night or before you go to work. You will want to be home after you set it up to keep an eye on the fish. In my tank 1 bubble a second keeps the drop checker green. Its also a good idea to move the drop checker around the tank to find high or low spots.


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## Dawna (Jul 29, 2013)

You can run it on a timer and a timed power bar so that the co2 runs about 30mins-60mins before the light turns on and for it to stop 30mins before the light goes off so that the remaining CO2 pressure through the tubing would drain out by the time light goes out. 

Lighting duration averages to 6-8hours. CO2 bubbles per second really depends on how planted your tank is, the amount of nutrients you dose and the type of lighting you have (low, med or high). Like what jbyoung just stated, drop checkers are the way to go to see if the CO2 is adequate, place the checker at the farthest place away from your tank and check the colour indication for green. Your fishes should be fine if you put the right amount of CO2 in the tank for the plants to absorb co2 and release oxygen in the tank. I would not recommend leaving CO2 on over night because plants don't absorb it and plants wont be releasing oxygen at night. For precision, safety and being a complete aquarium nerd you can have a controller in case of the CO2 dump or any malfunctions.


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## Daryl (Jun 1, 2010)

Okay, thanks. I don't have a drop checker so I will look into that. I'm also thinking about getting a PH monitor/controller - they had them at J&L and there was a Milwaukee one that was somewhat affordable.

Is the drop checker something you use all of the time, or only on occasion? If you have a PH monitor is a drop checker redundant? I thought I read somewhere that there was a direct correlation between CO2 levels and PH?


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## jbyoung00008 (May 16, 2011)

Ph controller is the way to go. I dont think you will need a drop checker if you have a monitor.

This might be similiar to what you read about Co2 levels and PH


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## jbyoung00008 (May 16, 2011)

Ph controller is the way to go. I dont think you will need a drop checker if you have a monitor.

This might be similiar to what you read about Co2 levels and PH 
View attachment 79785

ShrimpNow !!! - Water Parameters: Understanding pH, GH, KH and others


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## crazy72 (Apr 22, 2010)

Lots of good info here: Pressurized CO2...Just thought I'd share.


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## Tommy72a (Jan 6, 2013)

jbyoung00008 said:


> Ph controller is the way to go. I dont think you will need a drop checker if you have a monitor.
> 
> This might be similiar to what you read about Co2 levels and PH
> View attachment 79785


Just to add my 2 cents. 
PH controller is nice to have but can be very expensive. I had two incidents where my needle valve malfunctioned and ended up killing my fish. This was mainly my fault for screwing around but the controller would have shut down the system to prevent disaster. I still utilize the timer but ph monitor system is used in the back ground as a back-up safe guard. Also, Ph variance is predictable after awhile..


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## Gardener (Feb 13, 2011)

You can certainly do the CO2 calculations by _accurately_ measuring PH and KH. Been using that approach for a long time. Or you can go back to J&L and pick up a drop checker for about ten bucks, as I just did recently. Much easier ;-). Indicator solution only lasts for a couple of weeks before you have to add more, but by then you should have your CO2 regulator figured out and settled down.
I've read that stability of the needle valve setting (as in consistent bubbles per second over time) can be affected by the second stage pressure you are running the regulator at. As I recall the instructions with my Milwaukee regulator recommended a specific second stage pressure. 
Oh and when it comes time to refill your cylinder always refer back to the Milwaukee instructions when re-attaching the regulator. Forgetting the proper steps and blowing out the valve in the regulator is a very expensive mistake. Sigh.


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