# weekly water change straight from the tap?



## PeteAce (Oct 23, 2010)

How do you change your big tank's water straight from the tap? since the water is so cold in GVR, i'm concerned about the sudden temperature change (5-7 F drop). I usually do 20-25%% weekly, but I wonder if that's best for the fish...

I do not like to store water in buckets and let it warm overnight, that would take up too much time and effort for my 66 gallon. I run a python straight to the tap to fill up the tank and then add conditioners after.

Should I add a bit of hot tap water? I use a water conditioner that's called "Ultimate" which also detoxifies copper and whole bunch of other stuff.


----------



## katienaha (May 9, 2010)

First of all, you should condition the water in the tank first, and then add the water from the tap. This way your fish are less exposed to the chlorines in the water. 
Usually when doing water changes you should always match your new water's temperature to your tank temperature anyways, and bucket water overnight would be colder (20ish degrees, as opposed to your tank which might be about 27?)

If you are adding from the tap.. match it best as you can. Then hook up the siphon to drain into the tank. Again, add the conditioner to the tank before you put the new water in.


----------



## Crazy_NDN (Apr 21, 2010)

i just use tap water with hot water to warm it up a little, and quickly add water conditioner after, i have not had a problem doing this. simple and effective. no more no less.


----------



## Crazy_NDN (Apr 21, 2010)

katienaha said:


> First of all, you should condition the water in the tank first, and then add the water from the tap. This way your fish are less exposed to the chlorines in the water.
> Usually when doing water changes you should always match your new water's temperature to your tank temperature anyways, and bucket water overnight would be colder (20ish degrees, as opposed to your tank which might be about 27?)
> 
> If you are adding from the tap.. match it best as you can. Then hook up the siphon to drain into the tank. Again, add the conditioner to the tank before you put the new water in.


i always thought that most water conditioners neutralize chlorine and such immediately, why i add it after.
good topic though.


----------



## O.C.D Fishies (Apr 21, 2010)

I hook up the python to the tap and then get the temp the same as in the tank. Once I start filling I add little bits of declorinator in the tank. I was told that short term chlorine is not as harmful as being exposed long term. But as I said I add it at the same time as the tap water.


----------



## PeteAce (Oct 23, 2010)

Ok, so the question is.. is it absolutely safe to use hot water to match the temperature (maybe just a little lower) and add conditioner before/during/after?


----------



## hgi (Jun 13, 2010)

I do the same, just match the temp then add it to the tank from the kitchen sink threw a vinyl hose, sometimes I add conditioner but most of the times I don't even bother anymore unless it's a big water change.


----------



## couch (Apr 22, 2010)

I am not sure why it would be harmful to add hot water to the mix? I add conditioner before I add the tap water I just figure that this exposes the fish even less to the chlorine/chloramine.

Rich



PeteAce said:


> Ok, so the question is.. is it absolutely safe to use hot water to match the temperature (maybe just a little lower) and add conditioner before/during/after?


----------



## Immus21 (Jun 14, 2010)

I siphon my tank with a python after which I add the water conditioner. Then I refill with warm water roughly the same temp as the water remaining in the tank. Never had any issues from this method. If you haven't invested in a python siphon it's worth it especially when you have a tank over 10 or 20 gallons.


----------



## mysticalnet (Apr 22, 2010)

couch said:


> I am not sure why it would be harmful to add hot water to the mix? I add conditioner before I add the tap water I just figure that this exposes the fish even less to the chlorine/chloramine.
> 
> Rich


because supposedly hot water come from copper pipes and copper might have leached in small amounts into the water which might harm the fish, or so it is thought to be.


----------



## katienaha (May 9, 2010)

copper pipes arent exclusive to hot water. they can be exclusive to old homes though... check under your sink...


----------



## TCR (Jul 13, 2010)

Well I'm on well water. I add streight from
the tap and leave er be. I use conditioner when I add new fish

as far as temp. Look into the breeding cycle of most fish. Most recommend u do a slightly cooler water change to trigger breeding

personally I think some people worry too much. Tho I did add conditioner when I was in a place with clorine water

extra percaution dosent hurt


----------



## VinnyD (Apr 21, 2010)

if i am adding water to the tank..depending on how big of the tank and how much water change/top off, i sometimes do it in increments. but i usually add dechlorinators into the water if the water is straight from the tap.


----------



## couch (Apr 22, 2010)

I have heard that but honestly it has to be classified as an old wive's tail. Most pipes used now are not copper and unless the water has been sitting in them for years it is not like the copper is sloughing off of the pipe as the water moves through it.

R



mysticalnet said:


> because supposedly hot water come from copper pipes and copper might have leached in small amounts into the water which might harm the fish, or so it is thought to be.


----------



## Mferko (Jun 8, 2010)

couch said:


> I have heard that but honestly it has to be classified as an old wive's tail. Most pipes used now are not copper and unless the water has been sitting in them for years it is not like the copper is sloughing off of the pipe as the water moves through it.
> 
> R


aye, and what little copper does get dissolved is taken care of by your water conditioner same as the chlorine


----------



## darb (Apr 21, 2010)

By filling directly from the tap you are running the risk of GBD. There is a increased risk as the water temperature drops and there always seems to be an increase in "unexplained fish deaths" after water changes about this time of year and through the winter.

This article explains it fairly well Gas Bubble Disease on UltimateReef.com

Using hot water from the the domestic hot water system you are adding metals from the hot water tank itself and the cathodic protection that all hot water heaters have.


----------



## thharris (Jun 29, 2010)

I also worry about bacteria with the hot water as well, I personaly never would drink it myself so I dont use it on my fish.


----------



## jkam (Apr 21, 2010)

I know I probably shouldn't but I do heated water straight from my tank for some sensitive fish with no issues so far. I fill the water into my sump and use dechlorinator in the sump when I'm filling the tank too. 

Some sensitive fish I keep are clown loaches, discus and FRT.


----------



## 1843 (Oct 23, 2010)

Certainly the gold standard is water aged in buckets, heated with a spare heater, then siphoned into tanks. My problem is that with two 75 gallon tanks the water just isn't going to get changed often enough if I have to go through all of that. And how many spare heaters is that, anyway? I think the potential health hazards of metals or whatever are greatly offset by the health benefits of having more water changes actually happen. 

Besides that, at least the water from the tap doesn't have cat fur and dust settled on the top. Though the cat did appreciate having so very many giant water dishes left out for her.

Since the water temperature can be tweaked to match the tank temp, it's less stressful on the fish. 

Maybe not politically correct in fish circles, but if it's a small water change I may forgo the Prime and hope the bit of chlorine might help keep the algae down. Okay, I am more careful with the shrimp tanks.

A note on Pythons: make sure you actually need one. If you have a gravity situation already, you don't. My tanks are on the second floor, so I run a hose out the front garden and water the trees during changes. To get the flow, I use a regular gravel vacuum to get the flow started, then fit that tube into the hose.

To fill the tank I hook up to the shower head (I installed a bypass valve so there is a threaded fitting). I do make one of the kids stand there and hold the hose while I adjust the temperature, etc, but what is family for?


----------



## ncutler (Apr 26, 2010)

During my last water change, the cloudiness of the water increased dramatically. I think it was mostly from my the buffers I used (seachem's tang buffer and some baking soda) but it left me wondering about gas bubbles. Definately something that's on my radar now with winter.

I've been collecting straight rain water in tubs, but this took me all day to change while I slowly added bucket by bucket allowing for the water to warm up each time. I do this for my planted tank in order to keep my KH and Ph down.


----------



## effox (Apr 21, 2010)

My brother pours it straight from the tap with the temperature about even, without even using conditioners... Hasn't had any issues ever.

Couldn't tell you how the fish feel, but they look happy anyways.


----------



## T-Bone (May 3, 2010)

I personally use my hand to gauge the water temp. I put tank water in a small bucket and then dip my hand in it then under the running water. When the water feels just right I turn the stopper on the python and start filling. Just after I turn the water on I add conditioner. The water may be off by a few degrees, but fish are only effected adversely by large temperature swings, not +/- a few °'s


----------



## PeteAce (Oct 23, 2010)

Thanks everyone, very useful information. I will try with hot water and put conditioner during the fill.


----------



## silvciv888 (May 4, 2010)

u dont need "hot water."
luke warm is fine. i just make sure the water is between 76-78. have a thermometer handy to watch for fluctuations.


----------



## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

effox said:


> My brother pours it straight from the tap with the temperature about even, without even using conditioners... Hasn't had any issues ever.
> 
> Couldn't tell you how the fish feel, but they look happy anyways.


That'll work until the city puts a big chlorine dose in to combat spring runoff and the turbid water and associated increased bacterial count. There was a thread by sNApple in the old forum where he lost all his fish in his 90 gallon with a 50% water change due to chlorine.


----------



## Mferko (Jun 8, 2010)

2wheelsx2 said:


> That'll work until the city puts a big chlorine dose in to combat spring runoff and the turbid water and associated increased bacterial count. There was a thready by sNApple in the old forum where he lost all his fish in his 90 gallon with a 50% water change due to chlorine.


exactly, the few drops of prime is worth the peace of mind imo, plus your detoxifying the metals in the water


----------



## beN (Apr 21, 2010)

all i do is, drain what i need to drain out of the tank. 
do your cleaning.
add prime 
then get the water running..
make sure its tank temperature..
and watch it flow back in..
then turn your filters on..


----------



## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

A little bit of Prime goes a long way. Well worth the couple of bucks it costs to save your fish. I myself find myself guilty of forgetting to add Prime occasionally. I would still put tapwater in directly to my tank. I just make sure to dose Prime right before that. For my big tank, I try to keep weekly water changes to about 30%. When my bioload increases, I will just do more frequent changes rather than increase the ratio.


----------



## PeteAce (Oct 23, 2010)

I like to know when you use your water conditioner, do you add a full tank dose even if only 25% of the water is changed? I've only been putting enough for the water I replaced, I guess that is wrong.


----------



## 1843 (Oct 23, 2010)

PeteAce said:


> I like to know when you use your water conditioner, do you add a full tank dose even if only 25% of the water is changed? I've only been putting enough for the water I replaced, I guess that is wrong.


Nope, you are not wrong. You are quite right. The only water you need to condition is the tap water that's going in.


----------



## couch (Apr 22, 2010)

Actually you are wrong. It says right on the bottle if you are pouring the prime directly into the tank you need to add enough for the whole tank. If you are treating water in a holding container you only need to treat the amount in that container.

Rich



PeteAce said:


> I like to know when you use your water conditioner, do you add a full tank dose even if only 25% of the water is changed? I've only been putting enough for the water I replaced, I guess that is wrong.


----------



## seanyuki (Apr 22, 2010)

+ 1........



couch said:


> Actually you are wrong. It says right on the bottle if you are pouring the prime directly into the tank you need to add enough for the whole tank. If you are treating water in a holding container you only need to treat the amount in that container.
> 
> Rich


----------



## 2wheelsx2 (Apr 21, 2010)

Many forums have huge debates on this and in summary, the reason Seachem states that are 2 fold:

1. There may be impurities/other compounds in the active tank which will exhaust/bind up the Prime so less is available for neutralization of the chlorine/chloramines.

2. They can sell more product.

Personally I don't care about 2, as it's a good product, and the cost of water conditioner is cheap compared to everything else, so I just follow directions.


----------



## PeteAce (Oct 23, 2010)

My Ultimate conditioner bottle doesn't say that, just doses per gallon. This is very good to know... but then, wouldn't the conditioner quickly get used up that way if I do weekly? 60 gallons is 6 caps full...



couch said:


> Actually you are wrong. It says right on the bottle if you are pouring the prime directly into the tank you need to add enough for the whole tank. If you are treating water in a holding container you only need to treat the amount in that container.
> 
> Rich


----------



## hp10BII (Apr 23, 2010)

PeteAce said:


> My Ultimate conditioner bottle doesn't say that, just doses per gallon. This is very good to know... but then, wouldn't the conditioner quickly get used up that way if I do weekly? 60 gallons is 6 caps full...


That's why I prefer Prime, especially for larger tanks. IIRC, 5ml of Prime treats 50 gallons.


----------



## tang daddy (Apr 21, 2010)

I know for a fact my buddy use to do 75% water changes on his 200g discus tank weekly with no problems... Adding no conditioner and making it on the warmer side. I personally change out 70% out of EBJD planted tank with the ipu conditioner with no problems and have done this for over a year.
One thing to keep in mind is that there is more chlorine in the water at this time of the year, I aerate buckets of conditioned water for 3 days before adding it to my shrimp tanks cause they are sensitive...

If you are doing waterchanges on a big tank I would dose full amount recomended on total tank volume plus alittle more to compensate for the extra chlorine in the water at this time of year, it can't hurt!!


----------

