# Fish are slowly dying due to water issue?



## Jon (Oct 12, 2017)

Hi, I setup my first tank (46GL) at the beginning of the year, and have changed 25% of the water every 10 days. I have several plants and some wood. But, each fish I buy; within a few weeks spend more time on the floor of the tank, and then a week later is dead. 

I have had dwarf gouramis, mollys, platties so far, all having the same result. They don't appear to be ill, I just think something is not quite right with the water.


My basic water test today showed the following:

1.NO3 Nitrate: Your value is 20ppm. Result is OK.Maintain in an ideal range of 0 to 40 ppm.

2.NO2 Nitrite: Your value is 0.0ppm. Result is OK. Maintain in an Ideal range of 0.0 to 0.5 ppm.

3.Total Hardness: Your value is 25ppm. Result is LOW.Maintain in an ideal range of 50 to 150 ppm.
Solution Recommendation: General rule is to let your fish adjust to local tap water and not adjust.

4.Total Chlorine: Your value is 0.0ppm. Result is OK. Maintain Ideal value of 0.0ppm.

5.Total Alkalanity: Your value is 0ppm. Result is Low. Maintain above 80 ppm.

6.pH: Your value is 6.2ppm. Result is LOW. Maintain in an Ideal range of 6.8 to 7.8 ppm depending on species.

Also, bought test strips for ammonia, and they showed zero reading


I live on Vancouver Island if that makes a difference.


Any help greatly appreciated!


Thanks!

Jon


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## Captured Moments (Apr 22, 2010)

Do you use a water conditioner like Seachem Prime when you change water? It removes chlorine and chloramine. It does a few other things as well against toxic metals which could be in the water.
Another thing is I try to keep the water in my tank to 6 GH (General Hardness using Seachem Equilibrium) and 6 KH (Carbonate Hardness using Seachem Alkaline Buffer). Water in Vancouver is very soft so it's best to add some minerals back in the water to aid fish respiration and osmosis. Better Health for the fish I read. PH will be higher but constant PH is ok. It is the fluctuation that is harmful.


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## rsisvixen (Jun 16, 2014)

Well if could be your temp
What sort of filtration are you running?

Personally I aim for 20% water change a month split to 5% a week, thinking 25% every 10 days might be a bit much if your bioload is low.
How many fish are you adding at a time?


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## hp10BII (Apr 23, 2010)

What test kits are you using? Some pH test kits cannot measure values below 6, if your pH is lower than 6, it just might show the lowest value on the chart. It might be your pH crashing. Low or zero KH is not a good thing your pH may be unstable. What is your pH out of the tap? I bump up my KH and GH for all my tanks. My pH crashed before and lost groups of fish, so since then I always buffer my KH.


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## blueberry (Nov 3, 2015)

What temp? Do you have lots of water movement on the top of the tank for aeration ?


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## Jon (Oct 12, 2017)

blueberry said:


> What temp? Do you have lots of water movement on the top of the tank for aeration ?


My temp is currently 26c.

I am new to all this, and so googled for the best temp, but got lots of conflicting information regarding the best temp 

My tank is 46G and I have an Aquaclear 50G filter running. There is some water movement, but not much.


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## Jon (Oct 12, 2017)

Captured Moments said:


> Do you use a water conditioner like Seachem Prime when you change water? It removes chlorine and chloramine. It does a few other things as well against toxic metals which could be in the water.
> Another thing is I try to keep the water in my tank to 6 GH (General Hardness using Seachem Equilibrium) and 6 KH (Carbonate Hardness using Seachem Alkaline Buffer). Water in Vancouver is very soft so it's best to add some minerals back in the water to aid fish respiration and osmosis. Better Health for the fish I read. PH will be higher but constant PH is ok. It is the fluctuation that is harmful.


I use API Water Conditioner for any water added to the tank. But, maybe I should try Seachem Equilibrium & Seachem Alkaline Buffer???


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## mollyb (May 18, 2010)

these are all good suggestions, but the root of the problem is the alkalinity and hardness being too low, especially for asian and livebearer fishes. You can use Baking soda to increase the alkalinity (will affect the pH and hardness as well, usually beneficially, when starting where you are) use your test kit to monitor to the suggested level of 80 ppm. You can also dose with "Equilibrium", or "Remin", both good products designed to do the same thing, more or less. Your mollies and platies will also benefit a LOT from adding a bit of salt, make sure it is non iodized aquarium salt, NOT table salt, I would say a tablespoon or two per 10 gallons. I don't think it will harm the gourami, he may like it as well. Our water here is lousy for everything except breeding discus (but no good for raising them!) Good luck.


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## Jon (Oct 12, 2017)

hp10BII said:


> What test kits are you using? Some pH test kits cannot measure values below 6, if your pH is lower than 6, it just might show the lowest value on the chart. It might be your pH crashing. Low or zero KH is not a good thing your pH may be unstable. What is your pH out of the tap? I bump up my KH and GH for all my tanks. My pH crashed before and lost groups of fish, so since then I always buffer my KH.


I used a basic general test strip. But was thinking I should get something more sophisticated as I am not sure its detecting everything I need it too.


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## arash53 (Aug 13, 2011)

mollyb said:


> these are all good suggestions, but the root of the problem is the alkalinity and hardness being too low, especially for asian and livebearer fishes. You can use Baking soda to increase the alkalinity (will affect the pH and hardness as well, usually beneficially, when starting where you are) use your test kit to monitor to the suggested level of 80 ppm. You can also dose with "Equilibrium", or "Remin", both good products designed to do the same thing, more or less. Your mollies and platies will also benefit a LOT from adding a bit of salt, make sure it is non iodized aquarium salt, NOT table salt, I would say a tablespoon or two per 10 gallons. I don't think it will harm the gourami, he may like it as well. Our water here is lousy for everything except breeding discus (but no good for raising them!) Good luck.


100% agree ,I had same issue ,and it was alkalinity and hardness being too low , after I buffed my tank with "Seachem - Alkaline Buffer " problem resolved !


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## hp10BII (Apr 23, 2010)

What is your pH out of the tap? If it is much higher, pH is logarithmic, that is where I would start. I use Seachem Alkaline Buffer for some tanks, baking soda for others, both will raise your Carbonate Hardness - KH and your pH to help keep it stable. Some General Hardness - GH is always a good thing, Seachem Equilibrium is good for planted tanks, your plants will thank you too.


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## Jon (Oct 12, 2017)

Thanks everyone for the great advice!

I have ordered some Seachem Alkaline Buffer and also some Seachem Equilibrium, and will see what difference that makes


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## Marten (Apr 15, 2018)

Just make sure you buffer new water before adding it to the tank during water changes and give it a few minutes to let the ph come up. Adding soft water directly to your tank can result in ph shock during water change. I've been learning this with keeping african cichlids and having very soft water from the tap. I think this is why a lot of people don't adjust their hardness.


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