# DIY 180g tank build



## target

I'm planning to build my own 180g tank and am just curios what you all would recommend. I'm planning to eurovrace the tank. I've done a bunch of reading up and Google work but keep seeing 2 different set ups. One has the bracing set up on top of the front/back and sides, the other has it set inside. Any recommendations as to why one would be better than the other? I'm planning an external almost coast to coast overflow as well. So thinking having the bracing sit on top would be better


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## Daryl

I can't help you with the differences in style of bracing, I've noticed it too, but always chalked it up to manufacturer preference; like how Marineland or Aquen use plastic braces, but Sea Star used to use a slab of glass.

I will be watching your thread though. I'm planning a 180g of my own, but I only intend to DIY the stand.

Speaking of which, do you have plans in mind for a stand?


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## shift

If your doing Euro bracing I would skip the centre. Race and do a 4" ish brace all the way around and leave the centre open. 

Personal preference though. I'm debating using thicker glass and going braceless on the next build


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## target

Daryl said:


> I can't help you with the differences in style of bracing, I've noticed it too, but always chalked it up to manufacturer preference; like how Marineland or Aquen use plastic braces, but Sea Star used to use a slab of glass.
> 
> I will be watching your thread though. I'm planning a 180g of my own, but I only intend to DIY the stand.
> 
> Speaking of which, do you have plans in mind for a stand?


Yeah I've seen both ways too. As for a stand, this tank is being built into the kitchen as part of the reno. So the stand will be designed to match the cabinets I'll be building for the kitchen. Haven't fully designed it yet but will post pics when I do.


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## target

shift said:


> If your doing Euro bracing I would skip the centre. Race and do a 4" ish brace all the way around and leave the centre open.
> 
> Personal preference though. I'm debating using thicker glass and going braceless on the next build


I was thinking about that as well. I'm used to having lids on my tank though so not sure how easy it would be with a fully open top.


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## Dogface Puffer

Personally a fan of both euro bracing and rimless. However if it was me id go eurobracing just for ease of mind.


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## target

Dogface Puffer said:


> Personally a fan of both euro bracing and rimless. However if it was me id go eurobracing just for ease of mind.


Me too. I know I want bracing. Now wondering about the center brace though. Having no center brace would be awesome for working on the tank. But then I have to figure out how to do lids.


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## 2wheelsx2

The lids would rest on your Eurobrace. My cube is Eurobraced with no centre brace. You can just sit the lids on the braces.


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## target

2wheelsx2 said:


> The lids would rest on your Eurobrace. My cube is Eurobraced with no centre brace. You can just sit the lids on the braces.


Yeah that would work too. I guess I was just trying to make it more difficult than it needed to be by having them framed in somehow.


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## 2wheelsx2

If you want it flush you can have the Euro bracing sit lower by the thickness of your lid. Uaru Joey did that in one of his builds


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## target

Good idea Gary. That's what I decided to do. Here's the design of the tank so far. It's 72"L x 24"W x 26"H. I added 2 inches in height so that the overflow line is at 24" high and I don't lose any water volume. Overflow box is 6"W x 8"H. I also went with 3" wide bracing. The tank and bracing will be 3/8" glass, the overflow box and lids will be 1/4". Anyone see anything they think should be changed before I start pricing out the glass?



Front:


Right:


Top:


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## 2wheelsx2

That's going to be a great looking tank


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## target

Yeah I'm pretty excited about it. Need to start designing a sump as well.


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## tony1928

Very cool. Love the external coast to coast. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## target

tony1928 said:


> Very cool. Love the external coast to coast.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


Right now I've got an internal coast to coast and love it but can't wait to not have it in the tank.


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## SeaHorse_Fanatic

Mine is a custom built tank with full Eurobracing around the edges and no center brace. Works fine.


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## target

SeaHorse_Fanatic said:


> Mine is a custom built tank with full Eurobracing around the edges and no center brace. Works fine.


Cool. Now I want to work out the sump. I want to do a refugium, as well as I'm wondering if it would make sense to have a compartment for ATO built right into the sump.


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## input80

target said:


> would make sense to have a compartment for ATO built right into the sump.


I think that's a good idea, personally.
Would love to know your ballpark on this build Daniel.
Happy New Year Sir.


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## target

input80 said:


> I think that's a good idea, personally.
> Would love to know your ballpark on this build Daniel.
> Happy New Year Sir.


Lol, I'm still trying to decide whether to buy new gear and sell off my 90g as a package or to pirate the gear and sell what's left. That'll significantly change the ballpark.


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## input80

Lol, true enough, I mean glass & stand mainly. Got all of our equipment & will use it from the current 120.


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## target

Yeah I'm leaning that way too. Since I will build the stand it won't cost me a lot. The glass will be pricier. I'm planning to build the whole sump too.


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## input80

The tank style looks good so far


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## target

Thanks. Also need to decide how to run the return lines. I want 2 and thinking of having them come up and in through the top bracing.


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## input80

are you doing a canopy? why not run them through the box, I know more holes to drill? How are you doing the drains, bean animal or herbie?


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## target

There will be a canopy. It'll be fairly high too so lots of room to work with. The article you sent was great. I was already thinking of installing the return through the eurobracing. Now I just need to decide if I will need (or want) 2 returns. I've got 2 now. But I am also thinking gyre for the new build so flow wouldn't be an issue with only 1 return.

The drain will be bean animal. I've got it on my reef now and love it.


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## 2wheelsx2

Get the gyre. I am going to get one for the 125 for the plecos. Tired of finicky powerheads


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## input80

In my opinion (which might not really count for much lol), unless you're using the 2 returns to assist with flow, just use 1. AFAIK, 2 could be a bit more problematic, balancing etc? For additional flow, have you considered a closed loop setup?


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## target

2wheelsx2 said:


> Get the gyre. I am going to get one for the 125 for the plecos. Tired of finicky powerheads


The Jebao powerhead I've got has done really well but the gyre is just cool IMO.



input80 said:


> In my opinion (which might not really count for much lol), unless you're using the 2 returns to assist with flow, just use 1. AFAIK, 2 could be a bit more problematic, balancing etc? For additional flow, have you considered a closed loop setup?


One return would definitely be easier. I haven't looked into a closed loop. It would require a number of holes in the tank correct? I'm trying to keep the inside of the display as clear of gear as I can.


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## input80

Yes, an extra (separate/independant) return pump & holes drilled extra holes drilled. Our 120 came like that, 2 holes drilled in the back to feed the pump & T'd off coming back to the top of the tank on both ends. I shut that down because of the noise of the pump (was a reeflo dart). I have some pictures if you would like me to text to you to give you an idea?


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## tony1928

Even with my Reefer 250 I have to occasionally play with the drain and return flows. Gate valve everything and use unions lol

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## jagermelifter

this is sick bro! following thread..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## target

input80 said:


> Yes, an extra (separate/independant) return pump & holes drilled extra holes drilled. Our 120 came like that, 2 holes drilled in the back to feed the pump & T'd off coming back to the top of the tank on both ends. I shut that down because of the noise of the pump (was a reeflo dart). I have some pictures if you would like me to text to you to give you an idea?


Yeah I'd be interested to see some pics. 604-760-9444.



tony1928 said:


> Even with my Reefer 250 I have to occasionally play with the drain and return flows. Gate valve everything and use unions lol
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


Yeah I've got valves and unions everywhere on my tank right now too. Was so nice to have when I had to move my tank.



jagermelifter said:


> this is sick bro! following thread..
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lol thanks. It won't be a short run.


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## target

So I've mentally planned all the overflow and return plumbing. Going to have one return that will go over the top of the tank and through the bracing.

For the refugium, should I tee off the return line? Or just use a maxi jet and tubing?


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## input80

I believe to get the best filtration of the fuge (if that's what it's for), you want pre-skimmed water in there; straight from the tank?


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## target

OK so I'd be able to put the small pump in where the water enters the sump. Teeing off the sump feed line doesn't work well in a bean animal system. What do you recommend in a fuge? Never had one before


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## input80

target said:


> OK so I'd be able to put the small pump in where the water enters the sump. Teeing off the sump feed line doesn't work well in a bean animal system. What do you recommend in a fuge? Never had one before


Honestly fuges are debatable; what exactly do you want it for? In my tank i have chaeto only (at the beginning of the sump); in my wife's tank (there is a separate fuge) being fed by a small pump (there is a box fish in there).


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## target

Was mostly thinking nutrient and nuisance algae control. But maybe it's not necessary.


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## target

For the fuge I'd basically like an area where I could grow some pods. Right now I've got nowhere where they'd survive long enough to breed in my tank. Any suggestions on what to add to the sump for this?


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## input80

target said:


> For the fuge I'd basically like an area where I could grow some pods. Right now I've got nowhere where they'd survive long enough to breed in my tank. Any suggestions on what to add to the sump for this?


A small fuge with chaeto would probably do this then Daniel.


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## target

Ok. Right now I've designed a 100g sump. 20g would be the ATO, the sump would operate at 60g. 20g room for back syphon which should be more than enough. I've got 3 chambers, inlet/skimmer, extra live rock, and return pump. I could add a smaller compartment for chaeto. 

Roughly priced out the glass for the tank and sump last night and it'll be around $800.


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## target

Here's the sump design so far. Chambers from left to right: Pump return, Extra live rock, Skimmer/Inlet, Fuge, ATO.





And the design for the stand and cabinets that it will be built into. still working out what I want to do for the canopy.


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## input80

target said:


> Ok. Right now I've designed a 100g sump. 20g would be the ATO, the sump would operate at 60g. 20g room for back syphon which should be more than enough. I've got 3 chambers, inlet/skimmer, extra live rock, and return pump. I could add a smaller compartment for chaeto.
> 
> Roughly priced out the glass for the tank and sump last night and it'll be around $800.


Sounds good so far, although I would be a bit concerned with having 20g for ATO, incase it fails open; you could end up with too much "fresh water" being dumped into your system? I believe you could have chaeto in with the live rock.


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## tony1928

That is gonna to be one heck of a show piece Daniel. Love that you are incorporating it right into the furniture. 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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## target

input80 said:


> Sounds good so far, although I would be a bit concerned with having 20g for ATO, incase it fails open; you could end up with too much "fresh water" being dumped into your system? I believe you could have chaeto in with the live rock.


Right now my 90g, with a covered tank and open sump evaporates close to a gallon a day. I went 20g for the new ATO to prevent having to refill it every other day. But you do have a point. I'll think about it some more.

I've also tried doing the chaeto in with the live rock, added a bottle of pods, and they were washed into the display in less than a day. Too much flow. This way I can put a small pump to direct water into that compartment and control the flow.


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## target

tony1928 said:


> That is gonna to be one heck of a show piece Daniel. Love that you are incorporating it right into the furniture.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


Thanks Tony, it's going to look good when I get it finished. I have to build the rest of the kitchen cabinets before that wall and tank can even be started so there's lots of time for planning yet. LOL


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## target

Any one used black sand in their reef tank? Read a build on Canreef where the guy used black sand and it looked really good. Just wondering what type would work best.


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## SeaHorse_Fanatic

Daniel,

I use a 5g bucket for my ATO and it needs to be refilled every 3 or 4 days. (tank with glass covers). 20g could be an issue if it fails open due risk of either overflowing your sump or dropping your salinity. An ideal solution IMO would be to have some removable divider so its 10g regular and maybe the full 20g when you're on vacation. Tank system will look great when its all done.


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## target

SeaHorse_Fanatic said:


> Daniel,
> 
> I use a 5g bucket for my ATO and it needs to be refilled every 3 or 4 days. (tank with glass covers). 20g could be an issue if it fails open due risk of either overflowing your sump or dropping your salinity. An ideal solution IMO would be to have some removable divider so its 10g regular and maybe the full 20g when you're on vacation. Tank system will look great when its all done.


Yeah, been thinking about that. I'm thinking I'll just fill it only half way unless I'm headed on vacation. Removable divider would probably get annoying.

And thanks, I can't wait to actually get started on it. Kitchen cabinets first though.


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## Daryl

Regarding your canopy, do you want something that will give you lots of clearance for when you're working in the tank?
If so, why not make a façade that would match the cabinets on either side in terms of look, but instead of being 3 cabinet doors, make it a single (or double) panel that opens right up? Basically it would look like 3 doors, but open like a hatch?

Not sure if my description makes any sense...


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## target

Daryl said:


> Regarding your canopy, do you want something that will give you lots of clearance for when you're working in the tank?
> If so, why not make a façade that would match the cabinets on either side in terms of look, but instead of being 3 cabinet doors, make it a single (or double) panel that opens right up? Basically it would look like 3 doors, but open like a hatch?
> 
> Not sure if my description makes any sense...


Yup it does. And that is pretty much what I came up with. Just need to find the right hardware for lifting the panels. I'll post a pic of the canopy in place soon.


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## Daryl

Check out rockler.com for hinges & hardware. The box lid-stay torsion hinges may be what you're looking for. You can get them so they hold the cabinet hatch panel open at any angle and keep them open & out of the way. Calculations are required, but their website has a calculator.

Lid-Stay Torsion Hinge Lid Supports, Satin Nickel Finish | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

Lee Valley has similar stuff apparently if you don't want to order online - but to be safe you should figure out the manufacturer and see if they have a calculator as well.

I imagine if the cabinet façade is made of MDF and six feet wide and however many feet tall, it would be pretty damn heavy.


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## target

Cool, I'll have to work out the weight of the lid and see how many I would need. The mdf I use is ultralight but its still a big lid.


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## dkjmeaden

This build sounds amazing and cant wait to see finished product, the sump/fuge is impeccable and i agree, i put a divider in my ato and yes very annoying after awhile, just made a couple inconspicuous marks on the side to see half way and 1/8th till empty, got into it as well with a log book haha, crazy how i notice evap when moved further north with summer evap is more then in the winter months.


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