# Need your help..bacteria from your sponge filter - high Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate



## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Hey guys,

Anyone live around Burquitlam area that can help me out with some or ALOT of live bacteria from your sponge filters? I need some help cycling my tank...I wont get into details as I have spoken to too many people already and don't want to get mixed info (even called seachem support lol). From a healthy tank please, my fish is already stressed as is and they cant fight an infection at this point. Please msg me ASAP, would greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks!


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## jbyoung00008 (May 16, 2011)

Go buy Seachem Stability. J&L is in your area. $12 a bottle.


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Hey, yup got them but would live bacteria from sponge filters help or not really at this point? My cycle is going as my water parameters are as follows: Amm 0.25, Nitrite 2-5 ppm (hard to decipher between the two on the API test kit), and Nitrate 40-80 ppm. I've been doing what I can to make up for my mistakes. Should I leave it alone in terms of introducing more bacteria? 

Again, I know the water conditions are alarming but I have been reading all day for the last 3 days and I have been extracting evidence based info from the rest. The bacteria is my last piece to the puzzle so to speak. 

Thanks everyone.


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## Rockman (May 19, 2013)

Yes, sponges would probably help, to some degree (depends on how much media you can get). I'd offer up some of my sponges; but I'm a bit far away.

What you should be doing is water changes. Lots (as in daily) of big (50%, say) ones. Using an ammonia binding water conditioner is also a good idea (prime, ammo-lock, etc). For nitrites you can add a bit of salt (doesn't have to be any more than 0.1 g per litre of water).


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## jbyoung00008 (May 16, 2011)

engotski said:


> Hey, yup got them but would live bacteria from sponge filters help or not really at this point? My cycle is going as my water parameters are as follows: Amm 0.25, Nitrite 2-5 ppm (hard to decipher between the two on the API test kit), and Nitrate 40-80 ppm. I've been doing what I can to make up for my mistakes. Should I leave it alone in terms of introducing more bacteria?
> 
> Again, I know the water conditions are alarming but I have been reading all day for the last 3 days and I have been extracting evidence based info from the rest. The bacteria is my last piece to the puzzle so to speak.
> 
> Thanks everyone.


I cycled my 125g tank in around 12 days using 2 bottles of Stability. I dosed it everyday. I do have tons of bio media so the bacteria had lots of room to colonize. Maybe add one of the sponges that pushes air through it for the time being. Gives more surface area for the bacteria to live on. A sponge from someone will help but for the time being add Stability after every water change and daily. As Rockman said. Keep doing water changes. That's the easiest and cheapest way to remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

This is a good lesson that many people go through. Its part of the process and it sounds like you've learned a lot. Hopefully it works out for you


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Hey Rockman,

Yes your advice is consistent with what I have gathered to be correct info except for the 50% water changes...I started doing that but a lot of the people I have spoken to stated it disrupts the nitrogen cycle and may prolong it even more. I have been doing 25% daily.

Prime is a reducing agent that can reduce the oxygen in the water if I overdose all the time, so I am trying to be careful with using it as well. I did 5x recommended dose on the first day I found elevated Nitrites. My plan going forward is to continue with 25% daily changes, but with this, it takes away 25% of the prime that is circulated in the water (Prime is only effective in binding the ammonia/nitrite for 24-48 hours). I plan to dose new water with Prime daily alternating 1 cap and 2 cap fulls, along with 1 table spoon of salt per 10 gallons, and Seachem Stability 2x the recommended doses. My fish are doing fine, no signs of heavy breathing but they are more aggressive towards each other right now as I have not fed them in 3 days...hardest part for me now is to let the cycle run its course but I fear for the health of my fish (I've grown to be quite attached to them). 

I know many have experienced this newbie mistake but the one thing that other new fish keepers NEED to take away from this is: SLOW DOWN WITH ADDING NEW FISH TO A NEW TANK!!! Its been documented many times but with my current experience, this was KEY. I had a 36 gal running for 4-5 weeks with 10 fish, quick cycle with Tetra Safestart worked for me...at worst my water was: Amm 0.25, Nitrate 0, Nitrite 40. Now I am caring for a 55gal, used the old filters from previous, plus added Seachem Stability. I Have Rena XP3, Aquaclear 110 AND 70 running so I figured I can overstock no problem. I am where I am now because I have a total of 21 fish with 4 being 4-6 inches...rest are juvies. I did not give enough time for the bacteria to colonize and multiply to handle that much bioload. 

Although I did not want to post this much info because of the comments that may follow, I decided to do so to help others who may run into this issue in the future. There are a lot of threads regarding new tank syndrome but I found that I took bits and pieces out of them rather than referring to just one post. This is my experience and hopefully this will stop someone else from doing the same mistake. 

Please feel free to add info that my help but not looking to be criticized at this point, I am my own biggest critic. Thanks everyone.


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Thanks jbyoung


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## Rockman (May 19, 2013)

engotski said:


> except for the 50% water changes...I started doing that but a lot of the people I have spoken to stated it disrupts the nitrogen cycle and may prolong it even more. I have been doing 25% daily.


I can't say for certain that it doesn't interfere with cycling (although personally I find it more than a bit unlikely). However, what is certain is that increased levels of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are not good for fish (and can actually inhibit the bacteria if present in high enough levels). Change as much water as you need to get the levels down. Doesn't matter if your tank cycles faster if the fish are damaged in the process.



engotski said:


> I know many have experienced this newbie mistake but the one thing that other new fish keepers NEED to take away from this is: SLOW DOWN WITH ADDING NEW FISH TO A NEW TANK!!


Good advice. Can't be said enough times.



engotski said:


> Please feel free to add info that my help but not looking to be criticized at this point, I am my own biggest critic. Thanks everyone.


It happens. There's lots of conflicting advice floating around... it's hard to figure out what's what when you're new. We don't judge (you should've seen my first tank). So long as you're doing your best that's what counts.


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## SeaHorse_Fanatic (Apr 22, 2010)

I have a filter I can give you the filter media from and give you if you'll bring me some new filter media (the cottony stuff). Its a small aquaclear on my tetra/platy tank that's disease-free. I have a second small internal filter in there so that should have enough bacteria to keep the fish going until the new media becomes fully seeded. I'm in South Burnaby near King Ed's. PMing you my address and contact info.

Anthony


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Rockman said:


> I can't say for certain that it doesn't interfere with cycling (although personally I find it more than a bit unlikely). However, what is certain is that increased levels of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are not good for fish (and can actually inhibit the bacteria if present in high enough levels). Change as much water as you need to get the levels down. Doesn't matter if your tank cycles faster if the fish are damaged in the process.
> 
> Good advice. Can't be said enough times.
> 
> It happens. There's lots of conflicting advice floating around... it's hard to figure out what's what when you're new. We don't judge (you should've seen my first tank). So long as you're doing your best that's what counts.


That was my argument with the 50% water change as well...I will monitor the fish and increase as necessary. Thanks man



SeaHorse_Fanatic said:


> I have a filter I can give you the filter media from and give you if you'll bring me some new filter media (the cottony stuff). Its a small aquaclear on my tetra/platy tank that's disease-free. I have a second small internal filter in there so that should have enough bacteria to keep the fish going until the new media becomes fully seeded. I'm in South Burnaby near King Ed's. PMing you my address and contact info.
> 
> Anthony


Thanks Anthony! I have contact with one person who is a few blocks from me, I will contact you if that doesn't happen


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Also, I went home for lunch to check on the fish and my blue zaire moba has 1 white spot on the right pectoral fin and MAYBE another on the body closer to the tail fin (but not sure if it is or something loosely attached). I already have the water pretreated with salt to deal with the Nitrite issue. My temp was at 78 F to slow down the metabolism of the fish since I haven't been feeding them...I raised it up to 82 F as I'm really hoping it isn't the start of ICH. Anyone see any concern here? I don't plan on feeding them until nitrites are considerably lower (< 1ppm).


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Update for future references...Borrowed a large 6x6" heavily used sponge filter and it dropped my Nitrite considerably within 14 hours.

This morning's reading was: Amm: 0.25, Nitrite: 0.25 (from most likely 5.0 ppm), and Nitrate 40-80. Last water change was 24 hours ago, planning to do it when I get home this evening to bring my Nitrates down a bit. I'm a huge believer in the sponge filters like Ista Rectangular Bio-Sponge Aquarium Filter (Large). Installing a couple of these in my 55 gallon as soon as my levels are down...squeezing as much of the bacteria from the heavily used sponge into a bucket half full of aquarium water. Run 2 new sponge filters in that bucket for 24-48 hours to let bacteria find their new home and then install in my tank.

After experiencing this, I don't want it to ever happen again so I am overdoing it lol....especially if you are overstocking your tank!


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## onefishtwofish (Apr 21, 2010)

good. its also a good idea to always have an extra filter running just in case you have an impulse buy and need to quickly set up a tank..lol


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## Rockman (May 19, 2013)

engotski said:


> Update for future references...Borrowed a large 6x6" heavily used sponge filter and it dropped my Nitrite considerably within 14 hours.
> 
> This morning's reading was: Amm: 0.25, Nitrite: 0.25 (from most likely 5.0 ppm), and Nitrate 40-80. Last water change was 24 hours ago, planning to do it when I get home this evening to bring my Nitrates down a bit. I'm a huge believer in the sponge filters like Ista Rectangular Bio-Sponge Aquarium Filter (Large). Installing a couple of these in my 55 gallon as soon as my levels are down...squeezing as much of the bacteria from the heavily used sponge into a bucket half full of aquarium water. Run 2 new sponge filters in that bucket for 24-48 hours to let bacteria find their new home and then install in my tank.
> 
> After experiencing this, I don't want it to ever happen again so I am overdoing it lol....especially if you are overstocking your tank!


Well that's progress. Nice.

I'm a bit concerned about your nitrates though. 40-80 is pretty high; especially if you've been doing daily water changes. What's your tap water like?


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

onefishtwofish said:


> good. its also a good idea to always have an extra filter running just in case you have an impulse buy and need to quickly set up a tank..lol


Yup! exactly why im getting 2 sponge filters haha



Rockman said:


> Well that's progress. Nice.
> 
> I'm a bit concerned about your nitrates though. 40-80 is pretty high; especially if you've been doing daily water changes. What's your tap water like?


To be honest, I did not check tap water parameters besides pH. From my understanding of nitrogen cycle, this is a normal process: ammonia spike -> nitrite spike -> nitrate spike -> full cycle. I'll test my water when I get home today before I do my water change and ill keep you guys posted...hoping all parameters will be even better than this morning


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## engotski (Nov 9, 2014)

Forgot to post water chemistry last Friday. After work, Amm: 0.25, Nitrite: 0!!!, Nitrate: 40-80ppm. Did 25% water change the same evening. 

Yesterday readings were:
Amm: 0-0.25 (not quite solid yellow, not quite lime green), could very well be zero.
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: between 20-40ppm (dark orange). I wish these test kits provided notable color differences lol


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