# Phosphate reduction?



## neven (May 15, 2010)

From the looks of things, i think im having issues with phosphates. Reason i think so is because my ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all below the range of the test kits (APIs) and i got red cyano bacteria sliming up my live rock and foam rock wall, a little bit on the glass, and very little on the substrate. I also am getting hair algae growth, and a couple other green algaes.

I have a sump with LR rubble and a DSB (not seeded yet) so i want to know what i can do to help reduce phosphates. I still prefer to go skimmerless as i like how easy my tank is to water change, so im looking for low upkeep solutions.

the cyano bacteria was present prior to adding fish stock, it just slowly got more intense. Current stock is a neon blue goby and a green chromis and some hermits and a couple snails.


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## George (Apr 21, 2010)

First of all, you might need to start testing for phosphate, not to get an absolute number but use it as a baseline for your phosphate fighting measurement. Also API test kits are not the best test kits for the hobby. Try to get salifert, hanna or elos test kits.
BTW, how old is the tank? I wouldn't worry if the tank is less than 3 month old. If it is, read on. Also where do you get your LR? It may leach phosphate.
The key to reduce all nutrients is* less import and more export*.
*Less import*: Feed fish adequately (not too much that you have uneaten food flowing around), feed them with high quality foods that contain less phosphate, use ro/di water for water change. 
*More export*: skimmer, LR, water change (with lower phospate water than your tank water), solid carbon, liquid carbon dosing, GFO, growing and trimming of macro algae, limewater(kalkwasser) also binding a small amount of phosphate, some other chemical that bind phosphate
You should incorporate as many of above methods as possible in your tank to combat your phosphate.
Good luck!


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## neven (May 15, 2010)

The tank is over 2 months old. It already had its diatom bloom. The live rock is mostly j&l goby rock (mined) seeded with rubble and one decent sized piece. And live sand. Adding livestock did not result in a noticeable nitrate spike with the api kits. I've been feeding frozen brine and frozen mysis shrimp alternating once a day. The kits will be upgraded in time. i think for now ill pick up a phosphate test kit and macro algae for my sump and see how it goes

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I896 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2


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## luckylux99 (Apr 22, 2010)

cyno can also mean you have dead spots in the tank everything that george says plus try and increase circulation it goes along way


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## neven (May 15, 2010)

i have a koralia 260 in a 10 gallon, aswell as the return pump from my sump adding to the circulation, most of the cyano is in the open where the flow is substantial


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## spit.fire (Jan 3, 2011)

Read up on vodka dosing


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## The Guy (Nov 26, 2010)

I run a bag of Rowaphos and a bag of purigen as well in a hob AC 70. seems to keep my phosphate levels at almost 0 my tank is 4 months old. It's a 50 rimless Hagen with about 40 lbs. of LR in the tank and about 12-15 lbs in my Aqua nova 2000 canister filter with 1- 750 gph powerhead and a Tunze hob skimmer. J&L recommended the Rowaphos when I first started up the tank, I think it's great stuff.
This is my tank today:


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## gklaw (May 31, 2010)

I used to harvest algae from a 33g refugium running 96W compact 24/7 to export phosphate as I feed tons.

Nice looking tank Laurie.

Your tank may be still trying to settle in. I had a bloom once, tried to fight it but gave up and it went away. Strong circulation certainly help.


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## monocus (Sep 27, 2010)

build yourself an algae scrubber-cheap to make and very effective at removing nitrates and phosphates


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