# My Cardinals Tetras have Ich, will it go away by itself?



## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

I have about 18 Cardinal Tetras in a tank and I believe one of the Cardinals has 2 spots of Ich on it's Dorsal Fin.

Another one may have 1 spot on it's Rear/Caudal Fin.

They are very hard to catch.
Will Ich go away by itself?

Tank stats:

pH 6.6-6.8
temp 80F
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate [haven't checked]

Please let me know!

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

I'll be increased the temperature to 30C or 86F to try and speed up the Ich cycle or kill it off completely.


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## verkion (Apr 27, 2011)

Salt...slowly increase the amount of salt. I can't remember the exact salinity needed, but I have treated Ich this way before. Increasing temperature increased the Ich cycle true, but that is so that you can actually treat it. Ich, IIRC is resistant to almost all forms of treatment at certain stages in its life-cycle. The last thing you want to do is speed up the process causing a further outbreak without actually treating it.

Thanks!
verkion


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

Will salt kill the Java Moss I have inside there?


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## Momobobo (Sep 28, 2010)

Not unless its a high concertration in my experience.

1 teaspoon of pure NaCl thats un idonized (aquarium salt, pickling salt, etc) per 10 gallons is a safe amount. 1 Teaspoon per 5 gallons is a more riskier concertration, but works better IMO. Raise your temperature to around 86 degrees as well and the Ich should be completly gone withen 2 weeks.


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

use quick cure medication, half dose for tetra.


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

could i get away without using medication?

i'm trying to keep it natural.



hoping salt and heat will be enough...


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

Try the heat and salt method first if you like, but if you don't notice any improvement in a few days or notice further rapid spread, I'd go to Quick Cure immediately. You don't want to get a full blown outbreak which might kill all your livestock.


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## -DC- (Apr 21, 2010)

Salt isnt necessary, it will help in slim coat production which in turn will help the fish fight off the ICH. 

Temps are fully capable of treating ich without any salt or Med's, it's absolutely vital that the temps in all part of the tank remain above 85 for this too work.

Life cycle or metabolism of the ich will speed up as temps rise, after 85-86 degrees it looses the ability too reproduce, so the ich present speed through life in 4-5 days time then can't create a new generation and quickly die off. 

If you maintain a temp of 85-86 degrees you should see most visible signs of ich cleared up within a week, i recommend keeping temps high for a week following the last signs of ich. this should be more then enough too insure that no ich have survived too create a new generation.

I've had 100% success rate with temps alone, i add salt with my mbuna simply because they are tolerant and i add salts too this tank any way my other FW tanks i just up temps and it's never failed me! Most i've know too try it also have had great success the key too it is decent flow and an internal thermometer not the sticky ones. this way your getting an accurate reading of the water temp and can ensure it doesn't drop below 85, which is important at 84 ich metabolism is through the roof and the can breed like crazy in this state. if this happens you'll see signs of ich again a few days after it clears up !

another tip high temps depletes O2 so make sure too increase aeration too match increased temps , last thing you want too do is ad the stress of low 02 levels too fish recovering from ich!

hope that helps !


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## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

A lot of plants wont tolerate the higher temperatures. Java moss is very tough so likely OK but other plants may not. We would recommend treating with an anti parasitic medication at half dose as Charles mentioned. A few hobbyists seem taken with the salt/temp method. Yes in many cases it has worked out for them but surely in many cases it has not. Have a look at your hardness levels as well, low hardness can cause havoc on a fish's system and cause the stress that brings on the Ick in the first place IMO.


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks all,
Rastapus I'll confirm the Hardness levels, but Cardinals prefer soft levels don't they?


Likely I'll get the Quick Cure because by accounts I've read it's very safe.


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## effox (Apr 21, 2010)

I used medication the only time I had it after buying loaches from a local Guildford store. It fixed it within days.

Cheers,
Chris


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

Any need to increase temperature if I use the Quick Cure?


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## effox (Apr 21, 2010)

I didn't, with the mindset that it would have a longer time to kill the free-form "swimmers" (don't remember what the term is). It might be beneficial though at 86 degrees, but I just don't know as I didn't do that method.


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## Rastapus (Apr 21, 2010)

blazingazn said:


> Thanks all,
> Rastapus I'll confirm the Hardness levels, but Cardinals prefer soft levels don't they?
> 
> Likely I'll get the Quick Cure because by accounts I've read it's very safe.


Yes they are but some Cardinal Tetras are captive bred lately, of course that being said, our tap water is still too soft even for wild Cardinals and should be adjusted. For clarification see our sticky on water conditions in our tap water in our sub forum.


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## onefishtwofish (Apr 21, 2010)

how are the number of spots progressing?


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## blazingazn (Sep 18, 2011)

Hasn't been a full day yet, but seems better.

It's a lot smaller.
It could be progressing to where the Ich is falling off and multiplying though.

Temps are high at 30C/86F
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates all read normal.

I will probably pick up some Quick Cure from J&L Aquatics before class and drop some in tonight.


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