# Is this a good DIY stand?



## 6.0DSLPWR

Hey guys. I am thinking about building a DIY stand for my 55 gallon because everything I find store bought is either way over priced or doesnt have enough room to hold my two canister filters and co2 tank. I came across these plans while browsing google and just looking for advice on this stand. Thanks

DIY 55 Gallon Tank Stand (step by step with photos) - 3reef Forums

PS. I have my level 1 in carpentry and have built furniture in the past like end tables/coffee tables/cabinets/tv stands...the issue I am having is none of my furniture has to hold the weight this stand will have too hold


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## kacairns

Just judging by the material... he used a lot that wasn't needed to compensate for not building it properly. The plywood alone if 3/4 is more then enough to hold the tank.


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## AdamsB

as kacairns said you dont need that much material to hold the weight, but to look nice its good to wrap it in plywood. I built a stand that was just to serve the purpose of holding the tank.

View image: IMG 1120
View image: DSCF1253

Just 2x4 and a bunch of deck screws.


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## kacairns

Just to clarify my response further. The design covers all the joints with trim, to hide the rough joints he has made. If he increased the plywood to 3/4 he could of just screwed and glued the plywood together, the outside corner pieces plus all the other trim he used would of covered the screws. He could of probably saved himself a hour or two of work, and $50 in material as he had to make the exact same cuts on the 1/4" plywood that he would of had to make on 3/4" plywood.


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## ChronicReefer

that stand could hold a serous amount for sure, but I'm with everybody else and that a lot of the material is a waste of time, the absolute most your setup will weigh is about 650 pounds and for example a 4' 2x4 on edge will hold about 700lbs depending on wood species! get better material and pay less in the long run!


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## 6.0DSLPWR

I like the idea of having the 1/4" plywood wrap since I want to stain and varathane the stand so it matches the rest of the furniture in my living room. Are you guys saying instead of using a 2x4 frame and 1/4" plywood wrap the stand can just be made of 3/4" plywood?


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> I like the idea of having the 1/4" plywood wrap since I want to stain and varathane the stand so it matches the rest of the furniture in my living room. Are you guys saying instead of using a 2x4 frame and 1/4" plywood wrap the stand can just be made of 3/4" plywood?


Yes it can be made with 3/4" plywood without the 2x4s, just needs to be glued and fastened together properly. The 3/4" plywood can be bought in birch or whatever other species you want to for staining.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

I guess now that I think about it my store bought stand I have now is just 3/4" material. What do you mean when you say fastened together properly?


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## AdamsB

Yep. Most store bought stands are made from MDF with a water resistant veneer. The 2x4 is just piece of mind in my eyes for the extra handful of dollars. But "6.0DSLPWR" if you go to your local fish store or even petsmart you can see what stands are made like. Most of them come ikea style flat pack. I've been told 1 gallon of water weighs 8 lbs. so a 55 gallon tank, with rock and sand etc. you would be looking at 500 lbs or there abouts.


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> I guess now that I think about it my store bought stand I have now is just 3/4" material. What do you mean when you say fastened together properly?


Glue the panels together and apply either screws, nails, staples, dowels, biscuits. Apply them based on what would be required to hold together the stand properly, ie using a 1 screw top and bottom isn't proper, if you've done your first year you should now what proper fastening is.

People build stands using 2x4s and 2x2s because they don't know what they are doing. I would never buy a stand that was build with 2x4s and 2x2's as it shows the person who build it lacks knowledge to build it properly.


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## ChronicReefer

Mini Kreg® Pocket-Hole Kit - Lee Valley Tools

I absolutely swear by this tool, out of all the tools i own (a lot), this is one of my all time favourites, just bear in mind that a decent sheet of stain grade 3/4' ply will cost you about $80 & probably another $15 for edge banding, windsor ply carry everything you would need (sopme really nice species of ply) and will make you good clean & accurate rips too, i'd leave out the 2x4s but if you want to be extra cautious you could use the left over bits of ply to brace inside corners
iceto brace inside corners


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## ChronicReefer

Listen to kacairns!


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## kacairns

ChronicReefer said:


> Mini Kreg® Pocket-Hole Kit - Lee Valley Tools
> 
> I absolutely swear by this tool, out of all the tools i own (a lot), this is one of my all time favourites, just bear in mind that a decent sheet of stain grade 3/4' ply will cost you about $80 & probably another $15 for edge banding, windsor ply carry everything you would need (sopme really nice species of ply) and will make you good clean & accurate rips too, i'd leave out the 2x4s but if you want to be extra cautious you could use the left over bits of ply to brace inside corners
> iceto brace inside corners


Prices on plywood are better if you don't shop at home depot! I picked up 3/4" g2s oak (good 2 side) for $54 a sheet( at windsor plywood), birch is a cheaper wood, I'd expect maple or something like that for $70-$80s and maple isn't something most diy's can stain as it has a tendency to stain blotchy


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## target

kacairns said:


> Glue the panels together and apply either screws, nails, staples, dowels, biscuits. Apply them based on what would be required to hold together the stand properly, ie using a 1 screw top and bottom isn't proper, if you've done your first year you should now what proper fastening is.
> 
> People build stands using 2x4s and 2x2s because they don't know what they are doing. I would never buy a stand that was build with 2x4s and 2x2's as it shows the person who build it lacks knowledge to build it properly.


I have built numerous stands for people, using 2x4 frames. It does not mean I don't know how to build properly. I do it for the added piece of mind I receive knowing that the stand is beyond strong enough to hold anything that could be placed on it. Yes, you can definitely build without it, and I have. But for an extra few dollars, why not start with a super strong frame and then skin it? Lack of knowledge is not the issue, unless the frame is put together in a way that is obviously not correct.


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## AdamsB

Being in construction since i was 16 and coming from Ireland where houses are built to last longer than a 30 year mortgage I have a tenancy to build things to last. A 2x4 frame in my eyes is an investment. Its going to live up to any unforeseen events. got a kid in the house? Use 2x4. Planning on moving house alot? Use 2x4. For an extra 40 bucks and an hour and a half I know my 2000 dollars is safe. For some people its alot more money than that they're keeping safe. While i could make a plywood stand, I feel for a little more money you have alot more.


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## gklaw

6.0DSLPWR said:


> I guess now that I think about it my store bought stand I have now is just 3/4" material. What do you mean when you say fastened together properly?


If you can build a kitchen cabinet or the like with plywood. You can build an aquarium stand with. The vertical weight is not so much the problem. As long as you can keep the bottom frame / boxes from tipping with adequate screws and diaphragm / cross members, you can make it work. An aquarium stand is not much different from a desk - a top on a couple of plywood boxes.

If you are around Coquitlam Centre, PM me, you are welcome to see what I built. 

















The above holds 75 g water with almost 40" centre span for a 36" long sump. All 3/4" plywood and not too many screws; no glue or lumber. BTW, whole stand sitting on 7 1" adjustable gliders. Believe it or not. This is strong enough - I slid the whole set up filled with water a couple of inches before - carefully of course so no water spill.

The 105g below is sitting on a top spanning over two boxes at each end. It was built about 12 years ago. I used 1" MDG for the heavier edge profile. It could have been done easily with 3/4" plywood and soon to be replaced with 3/4" plywood as the MDF top has suffered some damage from SW splashes. Promised my wife doors 12 years ago, never happened :lol: May be I will try do document the construction during the rebuild.
This was strong enough for me to trust my toddler standing on the other side pushing on it.










I am not very good in documenting for DIY. With your carpentry background, you may be able to figure a few things out at the following thread:

http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/memb...-17/hotspikes-stand-progress-pic-added-20396/


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## kacairns

target said:


> I have built numerous stands for people, using 2x4 frames. It does not mean I don't know how to build properly. I do it for the added piece of mind I receive knowing that the stand is beyond strong enough to hold anything that could be placed on it. Yes, you can definitely build without it, and I have. But for an extra few dollars, why not start with a super strong frame and then skin it? Lack of knowledge is not the issue, unless the frame is put together in a way that is obviously not correct.


A 1" high piece of 3/4" plywood on edge if I recall right will withstand somewhere in the range of 20000lb of pressure, you will lose some of that strength as the piece grows in height due to slenderness ratio, and regain some strength as you properly brace it with other pieces and tie them together. If you need peace of mind by adding 2x2/4s, you probably aren't sure about what you're building to begin with. You end up loosing valuable space that could be used for other stuff under the stand and... it looks ugly =)


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## gklaw

Be nice  Daniel built a lot of nice looking and challenging stands for a few members.

Using 2x4 does not imply poor carpentry knowledge or skill. Very stylish work by AdamsB above. It is just a different style and preference of construction and the tools you have. Some like face frames cabinetry, I happen to like European style cabinets. I also love stained wood vs. a solid painted colour.

BTW, I never Varathaned that MDF - my stupidity and laziness 12 years ago.

There are tanks that I will definitely use 2x4 or double up on 3/4 plywood.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

You guys have definitely given me lots too think about. I do have a biscuit joiner and could build the stand out of 3/4 plywood and use biscuits to hold it together as well as brad nails. Looking at my store bought stand its pretty much a MDF bottom piece with 3 upright pieces. One on each end and one in the middle. Then a top laid across the supports. It also has a few supports across the back. I could copy that except use some plywood instead of MDF


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> You guys have definitely given me lots too think about. I do have a biscuit joiner and could build the stand out of 3/4 plywood and use biscuits to hold it together as well as brad nails. Looking at my store bought stand its pretty much a MDF bottom piece with 3 upright pieces. One on each end and one in the middle. Then a top laid across the supports. It also has a few supports across the back. I could copy that except use some plywood instead of MDF


Plywood would last longer to and if you ever wanted to you could sand it down and stain it a different colour later on too =).

I've got a 180g tank (72"x24"x24") with a span in the middle of it of 41" between vertical supports with only a 3" board on the front and back to take the deflection of the stand top from the weight. These 2 3" strips of 3/4" plywood support roughly 800lbs in that area


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## gklaw

kacairns said:


> Plywood would last longer to and if you ever wanted to you could sand it down and stain it a different colour later on too =).
> 
> I've got a 180g tank (72"x24"x24") with a span in the middle of it of 41" between vertical supports with only a 3" board on the front and back to take the deflection of the stand top from the weight. These 2 3" strips of 3/4" plywood support roughly 800lbs in that area


Not totally correct technically speaking. The ends of the stand carry most of the load as the tank itself will hold a significant portion of the weight in the middle. 
For my 105g MDF stand, no stiffener in the middle in used. For your 180g, I would probable have stiffened it just to be safe - scrap offcuts anyway.
I used plywood strip for my 3X 25g setup because the middle 40" supporting a 25g almost smack in the middle like a spring board. It does deflect may be 1/8" in the middle.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Sorry to bother you guys again. I really want to figure out how I am going to build this stand and get started on it. I thought about everything you guys said and did some more searching online about the debate of using 2x matterial or 3/4 plywood. I drew up a simple drawing showing my idea using plywood. Its pretty much just going to be a box. I figure I could notch every corner of the sides and a kick plate installed at the top and bottom on the front and back. I would lay the floor ontop of the lower kick plates and either biscuit joint the floor to the sides or get a dado blade and cut a groove into the sides for the floor to side. The top will sit ontop of the sides and be screwed down as well as biscuit jointed. I thought if needed I would also ad a vertical support on the rear tieing the top and bottom kick plate together. All my joints will be biscuit jointed and glued and I would use screws were possible. I want to avoid using screws on the exterior but figure I could use them in places like where the top attaches to the sides because it wont be seen. I would strongly appreciate any advice about my plan. Thanks


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> Sorry to bother you guys again. I really want to figure out how I am going to build this stand and get started on it. I thought about everything you guys said and did some more searching online about the debate of using 2x matterial or 3/4 plywood. I drew up a simple drawing showing my idea using plywood. Its pretty much just going to be a box. I figure I could notch every corner of the sides and a kick plate installed at the top and bottom on the front and back. I would lay the floor ontop of the lower kick plates and either biscuit joint the floor to the sides or get a dado blade and cut a groove into the sides for the floor to side. The top will sit ontop of the sides and be screwed down as well as biscuit jointed. I thought if needed I would also ad a vertical support on the rear tieing the top and bottom kick plate together. All my joints will be biscuit jointed and glued and I would use screws were possible. I want to avoid using screws on the exterior but figure I could use them in places like where the top attaches to the sides because it wont be seen. I would strongly appreciate any advice about my plan. Thanks


Biscuits with glue should be more then enough to hold your top down, in fact its not so much hold it down its just keeping it in place as the weight of the aquarium will hold it down. Dado is a good idea for the bottom shelf if you can do it, alternate is dowels, even then if you say you're going to put a 55g tank on it from your front to your back support is going to be around 10-11", you could just use some brad nails from the outside into the bottom shelf and once filled you'll never see them. Bottom kick plates I would suggest biscuits/dowels are all that is needed as it will be just keeping it from moving front to back on the cabinet tied into the shelf and only on the ends and 1-2 points on the span to keep it even.

As for the back support, depending on how you cut or get your sheets cut you're looking at 1 possibly even 2 sheets of create a cabinet for a 55g tank. If you end up over into 2 sheets you'd probably have enough left over to make the back of the cabinet a solid 3/4" unless your plan is to create a open space from both sides of course.

I also just sent you a chat message with the following: I was in windosr plywood in burnaby yesterday. They've got birch 3/4 plywood on for $46 a sheet I think it was for A grade both sides and still have the 3/4 A grade both sides red oak for $54


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## kacairns

Further to my last post, if you're going to put doors on your cabinet, you could always run a piece of say 1 1/2" or 2" wide stock from the top to bottom in the middle where the doors would close as well.


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## 77_Bus_Girl

It would be awesome to see the final plans on this when you do finally build (plus obviously a picture of the finished product!) I bet there are a lot of people on here who would love to build their own stands but are unsure what is required.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Okay I have drawn up a plan for my stand. I went to Windsor plywood and Smith plywood in Langley yesterday and checked prices. My first instinct was I wanted to use white oak because I have a coffee table I made 6 years ago that is white oak with black walnut accents. I said that to the guy at Windsor plywood though and he told me oak was going out and he would personally use birch as that is what a lot of people are buying now. Despite that I am going to go with white oak for the stand. I laid out all my pieces on paper and it looks like I will be able to do it with one piece of plywood and still have some left over. I would appreciate it if somebody that knows a little more then me could look at my plans and give me any insight. One of my main concerns is the top plate on the front of the stand as I want the doors to cover from top to bottom and when I open the door I don't want the top plate shown. For that reason I made the top plate 1-1/4 as my 1x4 wrap on the top will stick up 1-1/2 to cover the black trim on the aquarium plus the 3/4 for the top leaving me with 1-1/4 hanging down past the top of the stand to cover my 1-1/4 top plate. My issue with that is whether the top plate will give me the support I need. As a way to increase the support in the center I also added a 2" strip down the center that will tie my top plate to the bottom and will give something for the doors to close against. In another attempt to ad support I will have a 4" top plate, bottom plate and center support on the back. The bottom of the stand will be dadoed into the side panels and the rest of the stand will be assembled with glue and screws or a mixture of glue screws and biscuits. I don't think the biscuits are necessary though as I bought a pocket hole jig and think I can use pocket holes pretty much anywhere I need screws on the stand.


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## phyeung

I thought I saw aquarium stand sold less than $50 on Petcetera (formerly PJ store) at No. 3 road Richmond two weeks ago. I am not sure if the stand still for sale now.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Just an update on my stand. I picked up a sheet of 3/4 oak plywood yesterday from windsor plywood for 49.99. I plan on cutting all my pieces next weekend and hopefully start assembling the stand. I still need to go pick up some screws, dowels and a pocket hole jig. I have decided I can do everything with screws and dowels and not use any biscuits. Also I was worried that due to my front top support being so narrow that it wouldn't add the strength I needed I have decided to screw and glue two pieces of 3/4 together and double up the front top support and front center support.


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> Just an update on my stand. I picked up a sheet of 3/4 oak plywood yesterday from windsor plywood for 49.99. I plan on cutting all my pieces next weekend and hopefully start assembling the stand. I still need to go pick up some screws, dowels and a pocket hole jig. I have decided I can do everything with screws and dowels and not use any biscuits. Also I was worried that due to my front top support being so narrow that it wouldn't add the strength I needed I have decided to screw and glue two pieces of 3/4 together and double up the front top support and front center support.


Sounds like you're well on your way! White oak is used in boat building so a solid choice for material, cell structure of the wood makes it somewhat more decay and water resistant compared to Red Oak but as long as you're clear coating the stand you shouldn't need to worry anyways!

One suggestion looking at your drawing the doors will overlay over the bottom shelf, sides and the middle support. You say you don't want the top plate to be seen when the doors are open. I would suggest making the top plate at least show 3/4 past your wrap if your wrap is on the front of the stand as well. It in my opinion it would give a more uniform look and beef up your top plates support. Also if you're fixing your wrap permanently in place if you fasten it good to the top, and to your top plate, and with a wider top plate that might give you the extra support instead of adding a 2nd layer to the top plate and centre support. Just a thought but you plan looks solid so far and look forward to updates!

I just measured my own tanks here and between my top and the trim on the tank is 2 3/4" if you're planning on using 1x4 your top plate will only be 3/4" if you don't want it to be seen if you have it at 1 1/4" you'll see about half inch if your tanks are the same. I guess you plan was to have it showing a little bit to begin with.


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## gklaw

Very nice start. If done properly i should work. However, may be modified a bit to make it more laterally stable.

I would replace the centre support with a full gable and you. In fact, with a little bit more plywood I would put the full depth gable in at 12" from either side,. That still give you approx. 24" in the centre. The 12" boxes at boxes on both sides are handy for shelves or a box to hide the filters.

Also combine the 4" bottom support with the top 4" support to make the top an 8" to make a stronger diaphragm action for lateral stability.


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## gklaw

By the way, for the front support, usually does not take up too much load, the ends take the grunt of the load. Remember that for the centre to take up load, it will have to deflect (bend), an aquarium is too stiff to bend vertically.
The 1.25" is mostly decorative and will not be strong enough to take too much load. Doubling it in depth to 2.5" will be much better than doubling up. Even at that, it is still decorative. Structurally, depth is much better for bending than width. If you make the front 4" and tie that to the back 4" support, you will have a very strong top. Although again, for a 55g tank the middle is not taking a long of load. The top, and other supports, simply tie the end pieces together to make sure the tank does not topple sideway.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Double Post


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Ive been thinking about all the advice you guys have given me and am making some changes to the stand. I was doing some messing around and originally I planned to have my doors cover the whole front of the stand like in the left picture but after I drew it out I started to think it looked funny. Then I drew the right picture where I have say a 3 or 4" front face showing all around the cabinet and the doors a little smaller. I figure that way I will add some substantial strength to the cabinet and in my eyes it will look better. Opinions?

View attachment 14621


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## kacairns

2nd design is good, other option is to have sides overlay and large top/bottom. Strength wise you'll get a little more out of your 2nd design then having how I recommended just now and it'll tie things together better as well then my recommendation but either way would be solid. It all boils down to your own personal taste for the look. glasscages.com has a similar layout as to what you posted to their cabinets, I believe just based on the pictures on their site their doors aren't hinged which would be the difference on yours.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

I changed my plans a bit. My stand is going to consist of a solid oak face frame attached to a oak plywood box. I bought the solid oak from windsor this weekend and started cutting up all my pieces. The face frame will be assembled with pocket screws and attached to the plywood box with pocket screws. I am still deciding whether I should assemble my plywood box using pocket screws, biscuits, or rabbet joints. My question for you guys is where is the best place to buy things like a pocket hole jig, pocket screws, biscuits, router bits etc? I checked home depot today and didn't find much. Since I don't have many woodworking tools, aside from the basics, of my own and have always used my fathers at his house I am planning on taking this opportunity to start building myself a collection of my own woodworking tools that I can use for building other things in the future.


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## Clownloachlover

Lee Valley tools has an excellent kits for pocket screw applications...from a strength standpoint you cant beat rabbit joints or half lap joints...just use good quality woodworkers glue


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## gklaw

Local stores: Leevalley has the best service e and 90 dyas return policy. The only local store to you now is KMS. Tends to be the most expensive but would likely price match.
If you can wait, check out Elitetool.com
I think you can pick up a basic pocket hole jig for under $25. HomeD in Coquitlam has 100pcs pocket hole screw on clearance for $15.

Good $40 deal on CL if still available: kreg M3 brand new

I pretty well pocket hole wherever I could now. Does cost a few more $ for the screws but no holes to patch or plug.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Thanks for the head up on that kit. I looked at that same kit at homedepot this weekend. It seems every where sells that kit for 39.99. I emailed the seller and will grab it if he still has it. If not I will be going to lee valley this weekend for that kit and some pocket screws. I hope to get my face frame assembled this weekend and my plywood cut. Just need to find time to borrow my dads table saw or find a decent one on CL


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## Sidius

kacairns said:


> People build stands using 2x4s and 2x2s because they don't know what they are doing. I would never buy a stand that was build with 2x4s and 2x2's as it shows the person who build it lacks knowledge to build it properly.


They also use 2x4's because they're significantly cheaper than a 1x4 and much easier to work with than plywood panels (if you don't have a table saw). I only have access to a chop saw and drills and I've built some pretty awesome 2x4 stands. When I priced out using 1x4's or thinner pieces of wood to decrease the overall weight of the stand, it was significantly more money.


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## kacairns

Sidius said:


> They also use 2x4's because they're significantly cheaper than a 1x4 and much easier to work with than plywood panels (if you don't have a table saw). I only have access to a chop saw and drills and I've built some pretty awesome 2x4 stands. When I priced out using 1x4's or thinner pieces of wood to decrease the overall weight of the stand, it was significantly more money.


You don't really need a table saw if you plan the cabinet out properly before you get the impulse to go buy material. Just get the place you buy the plywood to rip it for you. I have table saw and so on, and I will gladly pay the extra few $ to have them rip it at the store instead of lugging it home to do it myself. Then I just use guides and so on to setup for making my cross cuts with a circular saw. When I did the stand for my 180g tank, I think I had them do 15 rips for me, cost me $20, saved me from having to do it by myself here at home, was easier to load into the van at the store, easier to unload at home and so on. That $20 was probably worth $50 of time/labour if I were to pay myself to do it =)


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## 6.0DSLPWR

I had that same plan in mind when I went to Windsor Plywood in langley to buy the plywood. I asked the kid there if they would make a few rip cuts for me. His response was "yes we can do rips but our saw isn't accurate...like if you tell me you need it right at 50-1/4" I cant get it that close"...his response didn't make much sense to me so I just got them to make one cross cut so the plywood would be easier for me to handle for myself.


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> I had that same plan in mind when I went to Windsor Plywood in langley to buy the plywood. I asked the kid there if they would make a few rip cuts for me. His response was "yes we can do rips but our saw isn't accurate...like if you tell me you need it right at 50-1/4" I cant get it that close"...his response didn't make much sense to me so I just got them to make one cross cut so the plywood would be easier for me to handle for myself.


Guess I must be lucky, even today in coquitlam I got them to rip me some kick material to the 1/16th of a inch as I requested. Only place I've ever had that comment was homedepot, and I usually only get rough cuts done there anyways. If you find a decent worker at windsor plywood who knows what they are doing and can actually use the saw properly, they'll have no problem cutting for you as you request. Another way to get cuts done properly is make them do all the one type at one time even if they need to switch between 3 sheets to make them, that way the saw is always set at that setting and they will all be the same even if they are 1/16th off of what you wanted, all the pieces will be that and it wont be a problem.


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## gklaw

Windsor Plywood at Coquitlam is the best! Small family ran and great crew. Cuts are always right on 
Price is also better than HomeD.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Started assembling the stand yesterday.

Solid oak for face frame all cut to size.









Face frame assembled minus the last piece(drill battery died and had to wait for it to recharge. time to upgrade to a drill with two batteries)









Stand base and sides coming together.









Stand again minus face frame and top. The picture makes it looked bowed but it isn't. 









Backside of stand. 









Face frame set against stand.









Underside of stand.









I hope to get the rest of the stand completed today. I still need to go to my fathers place and borrow his router for my 1x4 wraps before those can be put on. I am going to add a support at the top of the stand in the center running front to back. I think it will help hold the front and back together and give me somewhere to screw the top to in the center. I am also debating adding a support running front to back under the floor of the stand on the underside. I don't think one is necessary there though as the floor of the stand is bringing everything together.


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## kacairns

Good to see you went with larger face plate on the top, as for the centre supports from front to back, they aren't needed at all just creating extra work for yourself. The way you've used the screws and with the amount of them you stand should withstand a earth quake =)


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## dssv

Stand is looking great so far. Solid oak too. Going to be a very nice when its finished.


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## 6.0DSLPWR

Thanks. I appreciate all the help you guys gave me. Now that Ive built the stand I realize it wasn't nearly as hard as I was making it seem in my head. I was just intimidated by the fact this stand has to hold way more weight then any piece of furniture I have built before. I had thoughts of the stand toppling over and 55 gallons of water soaking into the landlords carpet.

I have another question you might be able to answer kacairns. On my plans I wanted my stand to be 48-1/2" so when I made my oak FF I built it to be exactly that. While building the cabinet I made all my cuts measuring the plywood as 3/4" while the plywood is actually 23/32". I didn't take that into account so now my FF of 48-1/2" is screwed onto my oak cabinet that ended up measuring 48-7/16" and my oak FF overhangs the cabinet a wee bit on each end. My question is I have a flush trim router bit that I have used for trimming arborite, do you think that would work to trim my face frame down on the ends to be the same as the cabinet.


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## kacairns

6.0DSLPWR said:


> Thanks. I appreciate all the help you guys gave me. Now that Ive built the stand I realize it wasn't nearly as hard as I was making it seem in my head. I was just intimidated by the fact this stand has to hold way more weight then any piece of furniture I have built before. I had thoughts of the stand toppling over and 55 gallons of water soaking into the landlords carpet.
> 
> I have another question you might be able to answer kacairns. On my plans I wanted my stand to be 48-1/2" so when I made my oak FF I built it to be exactly that. While building the cabinet I made all my cuts measuring the plywood as 3/4" while the plywood is actually 23/32". I didn't take that into account so now my FF of 48-1/2" is screwed onto my oak cabinet that ended up measuring 48-7/16" and my oak FF overhangs the cabinet a wee bit on each end. My question is I have a flush trim router bit that I have used for trimming arborite, do you think that would work to trim my face frame down on the ends to be the same as the cabinet.


Laminate bit is meant for cutting laminate not for cutting wood, it will cut it, it might not be clean cut, it might burn the wood. Honestly when everything is said and done, you probably will never notice the "mistake", does it even look like its a mistake or designed that way as well?


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## Clownloachlover

use a 1" long router trim bit like this one

Double-Bearing Flush Trimming/Template Bits - Lee Valley Tools

Or you could use a belt sander and be careful to keep it square to the wood!


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## kacairns

If you decide to try and fix it, just be warned that you could burn the finished wood on the side with the bearing so buy a high quality bit, sometimes fixing things isn't worth the risk of ruining other parts of it.

Time to go load up on medication now and put myself to sleep for awhile and hope I feel better when I wake up if I do!


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## gklaw

kacairns said:


> If you decide to try and fix it, just be warned that you could burn the finished wood on the side with the bearing so buy a high quality bit, sometimes fixing things isn't worth the risk of ruining other parts of it.


Agree. Unless you have a good router set on a table or have every confidence in doing the trim. 1/32" is really not worth it


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