# Dark green spots on the anubias/Dissolving dwarf baby tears



## giraffee

Just last week I was reading about how lack of some nutrients can cause discoloration of the leaves and now I can't find that thread.. So I'm hoping the collective knowledge can help me out. 

The aquarium is (somewhat) planted, four anubiases, sword plant, spiralis grass, some other unidentified plant and two plants from AquaFlora - dwarf hair grass and dwarf baby tears. The parameters are all at zero, pH is 6.4. We've got UV sterilizer to get rid of algae and it worked (in combination with BNPs and amanos). Excel is being added regularly. But now the anubiases are all covered with darker green spots, that doesn't appear to be algae (plecos did a great job of clearing that out). Any ideas what is lacking? Links to a comprehensive review as to what deficiency causes what kind of discoloration? 

And in addition, dwarf baby tears are slowly (and painfully) dying off. There are some new sprouts but it doesn't look promising at all. We keep talking about just plucking it out, but we keep thinking it will start growing. Any advice?


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## CRS Fan

The dark green spots are Green Spot Algae. Most algae eaters will not touch this stuff but it is more unsightly than anything. Nerite snails have been known to eat it though.

As far as your dwarf baby tears go:
Is it planted in a nutritious substrate?
Is it getting enough light (what are your light parameters)?
Are you EI dosing?

More questions than answers, but background info is helpful to diagnose issues .

Respectfully,

Stuart


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## CRS Fan

Here is an image of a plant deficiency chart from Aquatic Plant Central.










and a more in depth one (including CO2 deficiency parameters) also from APC:










Hopefully this helps.

Best Regards,

Stuart


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## giraffee

Wow Stuart, that's more questions than I have answers  So we are not doing EI, as a matter of fact your post prompted us to look it up for the first time. I really don't think it's algae, although obviously I can be wrong. It doesn't look like growth on th leaves, but more like discoloration. Maybe I should try to make a picture. Since we are not doing CO2 either, it might very well be the #6 from the table you've shared for under 30ppm CO2. But then again I was under impression that dosing with Excel is a good enough substitute. The light - I asked my husband he said 3w/g - I hope that this makes sense to you (doesn't to me  ). Substrate, yes it's Eco-Complete. Supposed to not require fertilizer for a year. I think that's all I've got.


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## giraffee

Continuing trying to make sense out of EI. It looks like a solution to our problem, now if only I was somewhat chemistry literate.


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## 2wheelsx2

giraffee said:


> Continuing trying to make sense out of EI. It looks like a solution to our problem, now if only I was somewhat chemistry literate.


It's not as complicated as you think. Since you're not using CO2, you can underdose a bit and use this scheme (from the EI sticky):

40-60 Gallons (152-227 litres)
30ml solution or 1/2 tsp KNO3 3x a week
18ml solution or 1/8 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week
8ml solution or 1/8 tsp K2SO4 3x a week
10ml or 1/8 tsp traces 3x a week

The trace can be CSM+B, Tailored Aquatics Amazon Elements, or Seachem Flourish.

The KNO3, KH2PO4 and K2SO4 and CSM+B can be purchased from Pat at Canadian Aquatics. While you're at it, get some GH booster also.

So the routine is this, pick a day (say Sunday) to do a water change. 50% is the standard, but more and more often is even better. I do 2x60% or more a week in my tanks.

Then after the water change, dose the macros, which are the KNO3, KH3PO4, and K2SO4. The next day, Monday, dose the trace, and on Tuesday, dose the macros, and so on, until Sat. at which time I choose not to dose anything. Then on Sunday do that 50% water change and start the dosing over. That's it. Pretty straight forward.


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## giraffee

Well that's why I'm a little lost. Since we are planning on keeping discus - the water changes will need to be much more frequent, and I was under impression that you cannot use the GH booster with discus.


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## 2wheelsx2

That's not true at all. Most of us in Vancouver use GH boosters with our discus. You'll see that kind of comment with many places with hard water. I do 3x60 - 75% water changes with my discus tank actually. I don't dose macros as I'm doing lower light levels and I've done a lot of EI to know that I don't need it (but I also measure the levels once in a while). But you can change water every day and dose EI. No problems at all. That's the beauty of EI. It doesn't matter if you do lots or less water changes. You may have to dose a tiny bit more if you change water every day to meet the minimums for good growth if you're using high levels of lighting and CO2, but since you're not, I don't think it'll matter.


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## giraffee

That sounds very convincing. I guess we will be nagging Patrick again this weekend. We are supposed to add some rams Sat-Sunday (if he has any). In any case we fast approaching the discus era now. Better figure all those chemical formulas out... In my defense I had the worst chemistry teacher.


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## giraffee

Question from my DH (dear husband). Why does one need GH booster at all? (I will not pretend to understand - but will relay the message to him)


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## 2wheelsx2

giraffee said:


> Question from my DH (dear husband). Why does one need GH booster at all? (I will not pretend to understand - but will relay the message to him)


Grant explains this much better than I can: http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/island-pets-unlimited-42/adjusting-hardness-your-aquarium-7033/

Plants also need Ca and Mg, plus the GH booster will provide some micros.


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## giraffee

Thank you Gary. Other than Patrick, does any LFS carry these? And if my green spots ARE after all green spot algae - do I leave them be and just start EI or should I pull them out?


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## 2wheelsx2

You can snip the leaves after you get fresh growth without algae. LFS do carry these in non-bulk form (as in the Flourish or Kent lines), but you are paying for water. If you want local, go to a Hydroponics store. I used to go to Solar, but they don't exist anymore. Jon's on Hastings should have all the ferts.


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## giraffee

Highly likely we will order from the States. The prices on nearly everything seem much cheaper, but I am yet to find them online. I have this  so far.

P.S. How ironic - this is my 100th post, making me a *senior* member! Ha! I'm clueless!


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## 2wheelsx2

Rex is currently not able to respond to anything. So don't go that route.

However, when you factor in shipping for 5 lbs of this stuff, I doubt you're going to save any money. I used to pay $6 a pound for that stuff which is right in line with the American pricing, at Solar.

Here's Greg Watson's site, which is now run by someone else: Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Main, Main, Dry Fertilizers, Dry Fertilizers,

Here's a link to Jon's. $13 for 5 lbs of CaNO3 (instead of KNO3)...you're not going to beat that. Calcium Nitrate | Jons Plant Factory


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## giraffee

I think my husband will be making a late evening trip to Richmond )


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## 2wheelsx2

You won't need much. A lb of each will last ages for a 65 gallon.


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## CRS Fan

giraffee said:


> Question from my DH (dear husband). Why does one need GH booster at all? (I will not pretend to understand - but will relay the message to him)


I currently have 3KG of SeaChem Equilibrium available for $33 (It is mainly a GH booster that is plant safe). PM me if interested.

Best Regards,

Stuart


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## giraffee

Update, in case anyone is interested. It turned out to be "all of the above", green spot algae, iron deficiency, light was too high, and probably number of other things. Started doing EI, cut the light by half (still high though), seriously started counting pennies for the CO2 system. Thank to all of you who replied, apparently even with information in plain sight some (me!) need to be specifically told that it is there for a reason  EI sticky is super useful and you guys are the best.


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## 2wheelsx2

A lot of planted tank complications stem from too much light. It's always better to to start slow. Lowering the light level/period accomplishes one main thing: it reduces the amount of energy to the plants, which in turns reduces nutrient demand (including CO2/carbon), thus allowing one to find balance easier. Once you reduce the light, you'll have less chance of running deficiencies, allowing you to focus on healthy growth. High light tanks can end up being a merry go round of imbalances.


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