# For those of you running double canister filters on one tank



## rich16

Rethinking my filter options, considering adding a second canister, or possibly just upgrading to a larger, single filter (FX5, or something equivalent) 

For those running dual cannisters on your tank, where do you place your spray bar / outlets? Duelling from opposite sides of the tank? What would be the best option for water movement, and avoiding dead spots?

Rich


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## 2wheelsx2

I used to do opposing spray bars but don't do that anymore. I think there's a lot of personal opinion in the placement but I actually use one spray bar and one nozzle type outlet now as the flow from the spray bar is flat and even and I like how flat nozzles direct the flow better. One thing I would say though is that if you are not happy with the flow now, going with an FX5 is not going to make you happier. Every one of my tanks except my ADA cube has powerheads, mostly the HK types, in it. If you have enough scaping, there's no getting away from dead spots with filter outlets alone.


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## rich16

Thanks. flow is now my biggest concern - more like I want to up my mechanical filteration as my cichlid popluation grows, thus the waffling between two "smaller" filters or one larger "beast". I do run a couple powerheads to minimize deadspots amongst all the rockwork in the tank..


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## 2wheelsx2

Ok, that gives me more info. The FX5 is definitely not for you. I assume this is for your 110? On my 125, I run an FX5, an XP3 and an Eheim 2028. The FX5 clogs very very quickly and I have to do as much maintenance on it as the XP3 almost which is only half its size. What's your current filter on it? I like the flexibility of having 2 canisters as I can alternate the cleaning and also not worry about bioload after a thorough cleaning as much as running a single filter.


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## rich16

Currently running Aqua Nova 1500 and two Emperor 400 HOB. I want to get rid of the Emperors, and either add to the Aqua Nova, or replace with something bigger. As I've been adding fish, the bio-load is increasing...as expected  
An FX5 was just a suggestion, I hadn't really done any research on the larger cannisters yet, other than briefly looking into Eheim 2028


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## dino

i have all my bars pointed in a similar direction and spaced out.i also have a couple power heads pushling the water back to my intakes. I think it makes kind of a even current that rotates around in my tank. Currently running a fx5,two xp3, and a h.ob.


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## 2wheelsx2

I don't know anything about the AquaNova's, but I currently have the following canisters: 2028, 2075,2078, 2213, FX5, XP3, and a Tom Rapid mini for my ADA cube. So you can tell I'm Eheim biased, for the sake of disclosure. If you're happy with AN1500, maybe stick another one in it. I got rid of every one of my HOB's because of flow, clogging, media capacity, and various other issues that I couldn't live with. I am planning to replace my XP3 and 2028 in my 125 with a 2080 some time, but have to figure out a CO2 injection solution to it as I'm injecting CO2 with the 2028. Anyway, if you're not hung up on the AN, then I think 2x 2075 would be perfect for that tank. I am running one in my 46 gallon bow with quite a few messy plecos and am very happy with it.


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## 2wheelsx2

dino said:


> i have all my bars pointed in a similar direction and spaced out.i also have a couple power heads pushling the water back to my intakes. I think it makes kind of a even current that rotates around in my tank. Currently running a fx5,two xp3, and a h.ob.


Yep, that's my current thinking in most of my tanks. Spraybars and outlets running in the same directions on top and powerhead pushing water back down low. I couldn't do that in my 125 just because my scaping blocks that type of circulation so I have two mini-circuits (each half with its own circulation) in it.


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## rich16

Thanks for the feedback..

I like the AN1500 - super quiet, easy to clean, easy to prime. Just not a huge fan of the gph turnover. Not hung up on it. Running an Eheim 2217 on my 65, and I really like it as well.


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## Flygirl

2 is always better than 1 - that's my story and I'm sticking to it. For obvious reasons including redundancy, additional filtration, more biomedia etc. The bonus is also more control over flow and direction. 

I'm running three canisters on my 210 (eheim pro3 2075, fluval 405 & fluval G6). All the outlets point from the back of the tank to the front, at a bit of an angle near the top. When it hits the front, it's redirected downwards by the glass. I also have a 750gph hydor powerhead (it only runs with the main lights and is shut off for the night). Keep in mind there is a lot of plants in the tank including a giant echinodorous. Where you have the intakes is also important for water flow. Because my heaters are hidden in the back behind some very thick vegetation and there is not much flow, I have the intakes right over top of them. The "warmer" water is sucked up and gets great circulation as it's pushed out of the filter.


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## The Guy

I would get the AN 2000 and run it with your AN1500, I have a AN2000 and it's an awesome filter.


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## mdwflyer

+1 for adding 2 canisters over 1 big one. I had plans for strategic nozzle/return placement, but that was modified by hose lengths that I had. It has worked out just fine.


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## springboard

Flygirl how do you like the G6?


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## Rastapus

Two canisters instead of one large unit means more stable filtration as you would not generally clean them both out at the same time. Also the flow of a larger filter may be too much for a smaller aquarium. The recommended turnover for a biological filter is twice the aquarium volume an hour. By having larger flow rates, you are increasing mechanical filtration but actually creating a less efficient biological filter. With an increased load, multiple filters is a good idea. Usually it is best to stick to one brand so your medias are consistent.


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## Flygirl

springboard said:


> Flygirl how do you like the G6?


Quite a bit. Very quiet and easy to maintain. The electronic display is great for anytime, accurate reading of my conductivity, temp and flow rate - really like this! There are a few more, especially if you like seeing the history of some of your parameters and how the tank has been functioning, some of that I could do without if it would make the price go down. Not sure if this is still the case, but originally there were two "stock" filter membranes that were designed for the G6 - one for the N. American and one for the European market. The one for us was a lot finer than the one for Europe (I guess they're thinking was we mostly had fish only set ups, where as in Europe they had predominantly planted). Mine got clogged really quickly, even with quite frequent cleaning - I hated it, was ready to take the filter back, and ended up calling the manufacturer - we had a good chat and once they found out I had a heavily planted tank, they offered to send me the euro market membrane to try out - awesome!!! worked like a charm and no more clogging! Now I really like the filter. And aside from all the practical stuff, it looks really cool.


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## mdwflyer

You could keep your HOB to go along with the 2 canisters...


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## piranhaBreeder91

I have an XP L on my 125 gallon with the outtake on my right side and intake on my left and the whole right side mostly of my tank on top is a dead spot. What if I was to buy a second canister, have both out going water in the middle and my in flowing water on both ends pushing the water towards the middle. Would that work?


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## davej

I know where you can get a Eheim 2028 for a great price! 
http://www.bcaquaria.com/forum/freshwater-equipment-classifieds-27/fs-eheim-2028-pro-ii-filter-100-a-39122/


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## Master wilkins

I have two filters on ALL of my tanks. One of my biggest fears in keeping fish is having a filter break down on me. This way I will still be able to get by for a time until I fix the problem. My positioning style on my tanks is all the same, I keep one of the intake tubes in each of the back corners, and the output tubes immediately beside them. One of the output tubes I point right along the back glass pointing directly at the one on the other side of the tank, the other I point at a 45 degree angle pointing halfway between the front glass and the first output tube. This way it creates a circular motion in the tank minimizing dead spots as the two work with each other instead of fighting against each other. Another thing you can add to this if you feel like it is to put a bubble wall along the back glass in between the two filters to have water flow coming from the bottom of the tank up to the top, and directly into the filter current.


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