# Question for anyone with Eheim 2080 or 2075/G160



## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Just wondering if either one comes with the upgraded grey/black inlet and spraybar, or if they come with the standard green ones. Hearing conflicting info and don't want to purchase the black ones if I don't need to.

Thanks 

*New question at post #8 thanks!*


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

My 2075 came with the gray plastic stuff. 

Sent from my gigantic Samsung Note 2


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## Rayne (Jul 12, 2010)

My 2080 came with the grey inlets/spraybar


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

Both 2080 and 2075 will come with the grey one.


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Does it actually come with a spraybar or just an outlet for the return?

Edit - Never mind, youtube comes through again 


I'm still trying to decide between two 2075's, a 2080 & 2075 or a wet/dry (and maybe a 2075 also lol). It will be a 210g Frontosa tank.


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## tony1928 (Apr 22, 2010)

Consider doing a sump. Maintenance is much easier and the sump allows you to do whatever you want in terms of biomedia. Then you can add flow with much cheaper powerheads. 

If not, then two canisters. I like the redundancy of running two if possible. Yes, it will be more work to clean but you can alternate cleaning.


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

I really like the idea of a sump, but it will be a display tank and I am kind of worried about the noise. The big selling feature of the sump is that there should be less stuff in the tank, but I can use inline heaters with canisters and as you say I would probably need powerheads with the sump anyway, so that selling point starts to fade away. It's also not a drilled tank and if the HOB overflow(s) ever stop siphoning for some reason, water is going everywhere .


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Hey everyone,

Got the new 210 up and running last night with a pair of 2075's. These are my first canisters. They took a bit to prime but eventually got them going. Thing is, they work great but about every 5 - 10 minutes I get a slight 1 - 2 second gurgle out of each of them. I can't really see any bubbles coming out of the hose when this happens, but I can hear the pumps cavitating a bit. I tried rocking the filters a bit last night, when I do this they cavitate a fair bit and then clear up. I thought that fixed it, but this morning they were doing it a little bit again. I am 98% sure my intake hoses are air-tight as the hose is TIGHT on the fittings and I can't see or hear air entering. I did just replace half the water in the tank and there are a million bubbles on the glass, so maybe that has something to do with it, but I doubt it. 

Is this something that will clear or should I empty them out and try priming them again? Maybe it's normal?


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

1) check your hose are too long.

2) because of the design of the cap on both intake and out flow, I always recommend people to put a plastic food wrap before screwing on the cap.

3) how did you prime the filters?

Are they new?


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Yes they are new

Hoses are about 3 - 3.5 feet each (30" tall tank), I had about one foot of hose left over from each one. I am using in-line heaters (on the pressure side) which use up most of that extra foot. Filters are at the back of the stand and really it's about as straight as I can get the hoses. I don't think I am getting air into the intake because no micro-bubbles come out of the output and the pressure is good, I think I probably just have a slight bit of air trapped in the filter. I don't know why that wouldn't clear itself out though?


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

how did you prime it?


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

First time I left the intake in the tank, outlet just above water surface. Pumped the priming button real fast about ten times. One filled up really nicely and the other was a bit slow. Plugged them in and had some gurgle every few minutes. They ran for maybe an hour. Closed the valve, took them back out and emptied them about halfway to clear the pre-filter of water. This time they primed strongly with one or two pumps only. Still had some gurgles, but reduced. That's when I tipped them to clear them some more and thought I solved it until this morning. It seems like air re-entered somehow but I just don't see any way there can be an air leak, and I get no bubbles from the return.

If they are still doing it when I get home from work I think I'll empty them completely and try to re-prime them with the inlet pipe full, the return pipe empty, and the return outlet out of the tank. Any other ideas?

Thanks for the help BTW.

Edit - This method looks virtually foolproof.


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

try it my way... 

empty the canister. Should always be emptied when setup. Make sure your tank is fill up full with water. Make sure the valve is opened. Put the intake in your tank. Now if you are using a spray bar on your out flow, take it off. Now suck on your out flow one time, then the water should come in from the intake. Put your out flow in your tank, you should see bubbles come out from the out flow. When the bubbles stop coming out, plug the power in.

Don't worry, you won't drink any water. The water has to push all the air out before it reaches the out flow pipe.


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Ok I will try that method also, that seems easier. Thanks a lot, I'll report back with results later, hopefully good ones (lol).


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

Well, when I got home they were working perfectly. Gave them a little shake and heard a bit of air in there but very minor. I think there was a bunch of air trapped in the media, since it was brand new. 

I am facing another small dilemma. I am getting excellent flow around the top 2/3 of the tank but I wanted to add a hob filter purely for mech filtration and aim the canister outlets a little more downward into the corners. Problem is I didn't want the tank far off the wall and I only have 3" clearance. Only thing I can see maybe fitting is a Penguin or Aqueon 55/75 but they don't have much media room. I think a better way might be to get a 2217 and just fill it with sponge and floss. 

I am trying to stay away from powerheads since Frontosa don't like much current. I suppose I could put them on a timer for 15 minutes a few time a day just to kick up crap on the bottom.


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

Try this out...

I understand you have 2 2075. Put one intake at the corner, and the other intake in the middle. The corner out flow should be with the corner intake together and aim to the opposite front corner. The middle out flow should be with the middle intake and aim at the same opposite front corner as the other one. Now get a powerhead something like hydor circulation powerhead and position it 1/3 from the top of your tank at the same corner where your corner intake is but on the side of the glass and aim it toward the UPPER opposite FRONT corner. This should create a good flow for your tank but mostly at upper portion and it should not affect your spawning of your frontosa. And because of the powerhead is aiming upward, it will also add more surface gas exchange in your tank as well. Works well better than adding another HOB.


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

You mean like this? Looking from top of tank down of course. Red is a powerhead.



The only thing that bugs me (and I know I am OCD) is I don't know if I want the intake right in the middle of the tank.

If I can get a HOB to fit, I was going to do something like this (red is HOB filter). The blue would be pointed down a bit.


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## charles (Apr 21, 2010)

the red arrow of the powerhead is pointing the same as the blue one.

the goal is to create same current. what you have below will have current cancelling each other.


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## Potatohead (May 27, 2013)

charles said:


> the red arrow of the powerhead is pointing the same as the blue one.
> 
> the goal is to create same current. what you have below will have current cancelling each other.


Well yes, unless it flows one way on top and then curls back down underneath after hitting the front glass, which is what I was going for. What you say makes perfect sense though. I guess I should remember too that fronts are pretty big and will move a lot of water around on their own.


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