# Fixing : Coralife Turbo Twist 36w UV Sterillizer



## eternity302 (Apr 22, 2010)

Found a Coralife Turbo Twist 36w UV Sterillizer in my wifey's place tonight when we finally went over for dinner!
Asked her dad if it's okay to buy it off him, and he tells me it's broken, just take it if i like, so i took it home hoping to see if anyone knows how I can fix it!

Anyways, the situation is like this.. i open the box... it seem to be brand new, even after opening it up and taking it apart, nothing seem to be used, he lets me know that he bought another one since the manufacturers warranty was useless, the cost of shipping a box this big back would cost him more than buying a new one. So when he still had the fish tank, he bought a new one instead!
Anyways, here's the deal, I have everything, almost every single part except one suction cup, but I also have two of the top part that connects to the ballast, i tried putting my four pin lights in and plug it in, neither works, but both of them seem burnt or broken! What's wrong? How can I diagnose!


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## Elmo (Apr 21, 2010)

you need a multimeter ... set it to the ohms / continuity / resistance setting. Take both leads and touch them together ... if it reads "0" ohms or beeps your meter is working. take each bulb, place the leads on the pins ... if the meter reads "0" or really low numbers, the bulbs are probably good (really high numbers means bad connections or filiment & no numbers means no continuity - completion of circuit - burned out / broken bulb)

next, if your problem isn't solved; find a dry location, open up the unit and using the meters probes, take voltage readings at the bulb locations, some units use ac to the bulbs, some use dc current.

if you're in our neck of the woods i'd be happy to trouble shoot it for you.


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## eternity302 (Apr 22, 2010)

Elmo said:


> you need a multimeter ... set it to the ohms / continuity / resistance setting. Take both leads and touch them together ... if it reads "0" ohms or beeps your meter is working. take each bulb, place the leads on the pins ... if the meter reads "0" or really low numbers, the bulbs are probably good (really high numbers means bad connections or filiment & no numbers means no continuity - completion of circuit - burned out / broken bulb)
> 
> next, if your problem isn't solved; find a dry location, open up the unit and using the meters probes, take voltage readings at the bulb locations, some units use ac to the bulbs, some use dc current.
> 
> if you're in our neck of the woods i'd be happy to trouble shoot it for you.


I can't thank you enuff for the help! I can somewhat figure out what you're talking about, LOL, the multimeter is that thingy that's always yellow with those two wires that comes out that like's metal prongs right? LOL! I don't got one, and wished that you were here, but seriously confused what to do, as I don't have a multimeter, and i ain't that smart!


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## Elmo (Apr 21, 2010)

ok
LOL me either ... in the smarts department as I've been zapped more than my fair share of times.

As i'm in chilliwack and you're in richmond ... we are miles apart, but the offer still stands, if you make the trek, i'll provide the multimeters ... only mine are either red & black or green & black ... sorry no yellow ones

LOL


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## eternity302 (Apr 22, 2010)

Darn!!!!=( wish you were here!

Anyone else know?

Thanks so much Elmo!!


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## eternity302 (Apr 22, 2010)

BUMP! =( Anyone?


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## eternity302 (Apr 22, 2010)

BUMP! Anyone know where at least I can get it repaired?


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